Gas Logs Buyers Guide

There are several things you need to consider when you are buying a set of gas fireplace logs for a new or existing fireplace. First, think about the fuel source. You can buy gas logs that burn either natural gas or liquid propane. Also, note that gas logs are referred to by many names: fake fireplace logs, fire logs, fireplace logs, and our favorite, gas logs for fireplace, which is grammatically incorrect, but you get the point.

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There are several ways to find what you are looking for online, so if you continue in your journey of conducting more online research, be aware. If you already have appliances that use natural gas, then going with natural gas might be the easiest and most logical choice.

Liquid propane can be used anywhere but usually requires you to install a tank outside your house (not exactly eye candy for your home). Second, determine whether you want to go with vented or ventless fireplace gas logs. This decision takes into account the main purpose of your artificial fireplace: is it mainly for ambiance or for heat?

Gas Logs for Vented or Ventless Fireplaces

Gas fire logs will appeal to you if you're tired of continually needing to sweep out your fireplace, cut and stack wood, maintain and sweep the chimney, or simply tired of paying for firewood each year. You may just be looking to upgrade from the traditional log appearance to a more contemporary style that can accommodate fireglass and other fun decorative media.

If you're looking for a simpler way to enjoy your fireplace and want to have a fire during social gatherings but don't want to be interrupted every thirty minutes or so to go monitor the fire constantly, then gas fireplace logs are the ideal choice for you.

Before You Buy a Gas Log Set

Prior to making a purchase of your gas fireplace logs, you will need to investigate whether or not you already have a gas line in place. First, you'll want to make sure that you have a gas line to your home. Then, you'll want to make sure that you have a gas line running to your fireplace. It is rare for a property to not have a gas line already in place, but in rural locations or for those living in contracted homes, it is a possibility.

If you don't have an existing gas line, you will need to contact your local utility company to find out the requirements to have one installed. The utility company (natural gas) or propane supplier (propane) will only provide the gas feed line to a meter at the side of the home.

The transition from that meter to the main gas line running into the home is commonly called the disembarkation point. Utility companies and LP suppliers won't do anything with gas lines in the home. A plumber would need to run the infrastructure from the meter to the fireplace. If there isn't a gas line to the fireplace, then you'll want to check with the local code enforcement office to see what requirements exist for a gas line to be run. You may need to get a permit and have an inspection conducted following any gas line installation.

Now, once the gas line is in place and the end is "stubbed" into the fireplace opening, a competent homeowner or fireplace technician can make the connection from that gas stub to the log set. Sometimes you may just need your existing gas line extended, which can be done easily by a licensed plumber. You should check your area for local NFI Certified Techs or gas fitters to see who is available to complete the installation and the cost for the service.

If a gas line is already in place, a permit may not be required, but it is recommended to have a plumber perform an inspection of the gas line to ensure it is sound, even if you plan a DIY installation of your gas log set.

Industry Finest

Some of the most well-known manufacturers of gas logs are also some of the finest manufacturers in the industry, and you can't go wrong with any of these brands.

• R.H. Peterson (Real Fyre) &#; These are the makers of the Real Fyre gas logline, offering a diverse collection of both vented and vent-free log sets. R. H. Peterson has been manufacturing gas log sets for over 60 years and is one of the industry pioneers. Their log sets are mostly cast refractory, with a focus on striking realism in their presentation.
• Golden Blount &#; While they're a younger company in the industry, Golden Blount has excelled in the production of cast refractory log sets that fill the needs of most homeowners. They offer a wealth of highly configurable burner systems that allow the customer to pair their log sets to the exact burner system they desire.
• Empire Comfort Systems &#; A longtime builder of gas floor furnaces and wall heaters, Empire diversified into fireplaces and gas log sets and was the first to employ oxygen depletion sensors in their vent-free gas log sets. An industry leader in vent-free technology, their sets feature many valve and control options, realistic flames, and durable log sets.
• Rasmussen Gas Logs &#; Now a common technology in the gas log industry, Rasmussen pioneered the sand pan burner system, which uses silica sand to diffuse fuel gas and create a realistic dancing flame pattern. This, coupled with highly detailed log sets, means the company continues to be a well-recognized name in the hearth industry.

What are Gas Logs?

Gas logs are a vital piece of an attractive and easy to operate gas-burning fireplace, whether it's masonry construction or a manufactured fireplace. There are many different gas log options and configurations to choose from. Most gas logs are either natural gas or propane but may be vented, vent-free, or configured for see-through fireplaces.

What do they all mean, and how do they work together?

Truthfully, there are only four major options in gas logs, and only two decisions to make before you get your dream fireplace. The first choice would be a fuel type. The second choice is whether or not you need a vented or vent-free log set.

There is a final set of options that you'll also want to take into consideration. Are you looking for a more modern fireplace design with fireglass or the more traditional log sets? Or, do you relish the traditional appearance with a modern edge?

It all boils down to your fuel choice, really!

Fuel Choices

There are two types of gas utilized for petroleum byproduct fueled hearth appliances. While there is very little visual difference in the flames produced by either fuel, there are still several factors to consider. It is important for you to know what fuels are available to you, and how installation varies.

• Natural Gas &#; Consisting mostly of alkaline-rich methane, natural gas is lighter than air flammable gas that is commonly found in conjunction with petroleum deposits deep within the Earth. While harmful to the atmosphere in its raw form, natural gas is a clean-burning and lower-cost fuel that is not a volatile as propane. Because of the lightweight of this gas, it also dissipates in the air and is less prone to form dangerous pools if a leak occurs.
  
  If you live in a city or town, it is very likely that there is an infrastructure already in place to supply your home with natural gas. Natural gas is even available in some rural areas. If you're unsure of what is available to you, you should contact your local utility supplier to learn more.
  
  For homes that have previously only had electric appliances installed, a feeder line from the streetside gas main may not be in place. Many gas suppliers will introduce a supply line to the home and install the meter at a discounted cost in anticipation of gaining a new customer. Before you look into installing a gas log set, it is prudent to find out how much the gas supply line, gas meter, and in-house supply piping will cost.
  
  Natural gas contains approximately 1,000 BTUs per cubic foot. While this is less than the BTU input of propane gas, the low cost offsets the difference. Because of the large distribution network that is already in place, a majority of homes will use natural gas appliances. It is important to note that most vented gas log sets can be converted between gas types, but most vent-free gas log sets can not.



• Propane Gas &#; Propane gas is a hydrocarbon compound that results as a byproduct during the processing of natural gas. When stored under pressure, propane condenses into a liquid form and is often referred to as LPG or liquid propane gas. It is because of this tendency to condense that propane is not suitable for distribution via pipelines over a long distance. Propane is a dense fuel that is heavier than air, meaning that it will pool if allowed to dissipate into the surrounding air. Propane is also far more volatile than natural gas, with a rating of approximately 2,400 BTUs per cubic foot of gas.
  
  If you live in a rural area that is far removed from gas utilities, chances are that you will have to rely on propane gas as a fuel for your gas log set. If your home already has gas appliances, it is likely that you already have a large above or below-ground propane tank installed. If you already have gas appliances in your home, you need only ask the utility company if they have a truck come to deliver the fuel gas each season. If yes, propane. If no, natural gas. To learn more about the differences between natural gas and propane, please read our article here.
  
  As with natural gas appliances, it is possible to convert most propane vented gas log sets to a different fuel. However, it is usually not possible to convert most vent-free appliances. The reason for this is because vent-free appliances can potentially release harmful emissions into the room air if converted improperly.
  
  This is not necessarily a problem with vented appliances because the chimney system will carry the byproducts and dissipate them into the atmosphere. Vent-free models are built, tested, and sold to burn the original fuel they were designed for only. If you purchase a vent-free gas log burner that is fueled by propane and then the utility company installs natural gas in your area, you will be forced to replace the entire burner assembly.


• Gas Orifices &#; Since the two gases are so different, you're probably wondering how the log sets can burn the same. It's really due to the orifices. Also known in the industry as gas jets, an orifice is a small fitting that is installed in line with the gas flow.
  
  Models that have a standing pilot will have an orifice for the pilot and at least one orifice for the burner itself. Large models may have multiple orifices. Each orifice will have a small hole drilled through the center to meter the correct amount of gas to the pilot and burner assembly. Because of its lower BTU potential, natural gas will use larger orifices, while high volatility propane will use smaller orifices.
  
  The size differences in the orifices for each gas type result is an identical or nearly identical flow of BTUs to the pilot and burner assembly. This means that no matter what fuel you are burning, the overall look of the gas log flame is the same. While these orifices can be easily swapped for most vented appliances, they are usually integral to vent-free pilot assemblies and equipped with anti-tampering devices for vent-free main burner orifices.

How do gas logs work?

Gas logs operate differently depending on whether they're vented or ventless. They contain several components, but the burner assembly is the most important part. The burner may feature different ignition systems: match lit, push-button, or electronic ignition. The gas burner supplies gas needed for combustion, while the gas logs or fireglass camouflages the burner for a traditional or contemporary look.

Difference between Vented and Unvented Gas Logs

Vented Gas Logs

Above all else, vented gas logs are designed for ambiance and flame presentation. These systems are engineered to be enticing to those that have an existing masonry or prefabricated wood burning fireplace that they are no longer using to burn wood. People repurpose wood burning fireplaces for a number of reasons, whether it's due to a lack of wood fuel supply or because they're tired of sweeping ash and cleaning the chimney.

A vented gas log set may be the best option if you desire simple installation, freedom of log arrangement, and less intense heating capacity. Many manufacturers will recommend primary or secondary log arrangements, but in almost all cases, it is possible to play with the arrangement and find a pleasing setup. Additionally, it is not an issue if the flame hits some of the logs directly, but it is recommended to avoid doing so to minimize soot build-up.

Modern vented gas log sets will usually feature the following items:

• Burner Assembly &#; Many models use what is known as a pan burner,which generally consists of a slanted pan filled with sand for natural gas units or vermiculite for propane units. Both media types diffuse the gas after it exits the gas pipe buried beneath the media. This allows the burner to create a very natural-looking flame.
  
  Other pan burners follow the same concept but may use a pan filled with ceramic pebbles to diffuse the gas. Some low-cost models utilize what is known as a tube burner, which is usually an aluminum tube with rows of perforations. Because the flame is very static and cannot divert from the tube, these systems lack the realistic appearance of other burners.




• Log Grate &#; Designed to hold the log set and mimic the look of a traditional wood log grate, this item is sized to the specific burner and log set being installed.


• Decorative Embers or Lava Rock &#; Many sets include a ceramic wool-based material that glows when heated. The material is designed to loosely cover part of the burner or sit directly in front of it, giving the illusion of a real bed of hot embers. If the set includes lava rock it is usually broken down into L or ? inch pieces and is used to surround the burner, but not cover it. The idea is to cover more of the fireplace floor and make it look less sterile. With a wood fire, hot coals will fall away from the fire and smolder out. The lava rock mimics the look of these coals.


• Log Set &#; What makes gas logs so special and what are gas fireplace logs made of? Well, the log set itself consists of either ceramic refractory (heavy cement) or ceramic fiber (lightweight fibrous), both of which are non-combustible materials. Refractory logs are very durable, sturdy, and usually hand-painted exceptional well. Fiber logs are manufactured from the same basic material as the glowing ceramic embers. They are lightweight and are resistant to flame damage.
  
  Each has its own set of disadvantages as well. For instance, refractory gas logs tend to accumulate soot more readily than ceramic fiber logs, and they do not glow when heated. Depending on the exact design, some models will also glow when heated for added realism. And, ceramic fiber logs tend to break down with age, and their coloring is not as realistic as ceramic refractory log sets.

When installing a vented log set, it is recommended to have your chimney swept beforehand to eliminate the possibility of lingering wood ash odor in the room. The chimney should also be in good working order. If there were problems with the chimney venting a wood fire, the same issues will be present for a vented gas log set. Never assume that a vented gas log set will solve chimney problems.

Vent-Free Gas Logs

Vent-free gas log sets excel as supplemental room heaters. All the heat generated by these models stays in the room, thanks to the ability to close the chimney damper. There are drawbacks, however. Unlike vented gas log sets, vent-free models are limited to a maximum of 40,000 BTUs per hour. This limitation means that the log set will have a lower flame and will look less realistic, especially for larger fire log sets that spread the fire out over a wide area.

Vent-free log sets also release moisture vapor to the room as they operate, meaning that smaller rooms can start to feel humid after prolonged burns. It is recommended to use a vent-free log set for no more than 4 hours continuously.

It's also important to note that many municipalities and some states do not allow the use of vent-free log sets. Before purchasing, you should verify with your local code office to determine if vent-free units are permitted in your area. Vent-free systems can be very versatile, despite their downsides, and make an excellent choice in the right circumstances.

Vent-free log sets are often susceptible to mistakes made in the fireplace acquisition process, and you can check out our 5 Biggest Mistakes Made When Purchasing A Fireplace article to make sure that you're avoiding the most common problems.

Vent-free systems feature similar system components as vented models, with some differences:

• Burner Assembly &#; Vent-free burner systems feature more advanced engineering compared to vented models. In order to maintain indoor air quality and burn cleanly, they typically feature an enhanced orifice system and do not use loose media.
  
  Pan model burners do exist but are typically filled with ceramic pellets that do not negatively affect room air as the gas burns. The burner pan is also designed for a particular log arrangement around the flame, instead of over them. This prevents direct flame contact to the logs and the release of soot and other byproducts into the air.
  
  Other models use a tube burner, also featuring a similar placement of the logs to prevent covering the tubes. They will also feature numerous small gas ports rather than the larger ones found in the vented systems. The small ports allow very fine metering and complete combustion of the fuel gas.


• Log Grate &#; Tube burner systems will usually feature either an integral "mini" grate or some sort of faux grate. Manufacturers cannot take the chance of the grate being arranged improperly over the logs, so the grate will either be part of the burner or will be able to attach in only one way. Some pan burner systems use no grate at all, using the height of the burner pan and a decorative front to mimic the look of a traditional grate.


• Decorative Embers or Lava Rock &#; As with vented sets, many vent-free models use ceramic embers for added effect. To maintain air quality, the embers must be arranged just as instructed in the owner's manual. The embers are placed adjacent to the gas ports, close enough to glow when heated, but not close enough to obstruct gas flow and produce soot. Lava rocks are often included and serve the same purpose as those for vented log sets.


• Log Set &#; As with vented log sets you have a choice between ceramic fiber or ceramic refractory logs. However, since the log configuration is crucial, manufacturers will employ several techniques to avoid improper installation. For ceramic refractory logs, a series of indentations and corresponding pegs are cast into the legs. These fit together and maintain the correct position of the log set. Some models will also have notches designed to fit over the log grate. Similar to refractory models, ceramic fiber sets have a series of pressed-in pins or guides to fit into corresponding holes on other logs to avoid improper assembly of the log set.

As previously mentioned, vent-free log sets are not as aesthetically pleasing as a vented model, but the gap between the two has closed significantly. For supplemental heating in large spaces, they are both excellent options.

Here are other considerations to make. Vent-free units have BTU limitations for where they can be installed in your home. There are also requirements for how maximum heater rating per the definition of undefined space. These limits are 10,000 BTUs for bedrooms and 6,000 for bathrooms. So, any rooms that are connected via archways or doorways that cannot be closed should be considered as cumulative and undefined space.

How to Light Gas Logs

There are three main ways to light your gas logs, which depend on the internal ignition system used for their operation. Most manufacturers offer a variety of ignition systems for their gas log sets; however, your options boil down to these three pilot and valve types: match lit, safety pilot or push-button, and on/off millivolt valve.

Pilot and Valve Types

• Match Light &#; This is the simplest method of lighting a log set and usually only available for vented natural gas systems. In these cases, the burner assembly has no valve or pilot assembly attached. Instead, the gas supply line is connected directly to the burner.
  
  To ignite, simply hold a lit match or lighter just above the burner assembly and below the log set. With the external gas valve open to supply the gas to the set, the gas will ignite. This is a good option for the greatest realism and lowest overall cost, with the added plus of no pilot or valve to hide.


• Safety Pilot Light Valve &#; This system can be found on almost all vented and vent-free systems, both in natural gas and liquid propane configurations. This is usually a simple brass control valve that is affixed to the burner assembly and utilizes a standing pilot light. The system has three settings: Off, Pilot, and On.
  
  The gas control valve adjacent to the fireplace can be left open at all times. During the offseason, the safety pilot valve can stay in the "off" position. For the regular burn season, the valve can be turned to the "pilot" position, and the pilot assembly remains lit. When the use of the fireplace is desired, you can simply rotate the control knob to "on", and the burner will light.
  
  Rotating the system back to "pilot" will turn the main burner off but leave the pilot lit. Should the pilot blow out during either standby or during operation of the main burner, the entire valve will close and stop the flow of gas. Many safety pilot valves are on/off control only, but some brands, such as Empire, have a 3-step flame height adjustment.


• On/Off Millivolt Valve &#; This system can be found for almost all vented and vent-free systems in both LPG and NG configurations. It builds on the capabilities of the safety pilot system and has the same type of control knob with the same settings. Millivolt valves can add the following abilities:
  
  
  Utilize a remote control or a wall switch for operation. The gas valve has a terminal block that will allow direct wiring of a wall switch immediately adjacent to the fireplace or the use of a battery-operated-remote receiver and transmitter set.
  
  
  
  It usually has a push-button ignitor for the pilot. Unlike almost all safety pilot valves that rely on a match or lighter to ignite the pilot flame, on/off millivolt valves usually have a piezo igniter to light the pilot.
  
  Many models offer manual flame height adjustment. Many valves have a built-in regulator with an adjustment knob that allows the flame height to be regulated. This is a manual-only feature that cannot be automated in most cases.


• Hi/Low Millivolt Valve &#; This system can be found for almost all vented and vent-free systems in both LPG and NG configurations. This system builds still further on the on/off millivolt system by adding automatic high/low flame adjustment. Almost all valves that have this type of system requires the high/low flame control to be done via a special remote control or wall switch. The system will usually not allow manual adjustment, as damage to the valve can result if it is attempted.


• Electronic Valves &#; This system can be found for almost all vented and vent-free systems in both liquid propane and natural gas configurations, but the exact features and capabilities vary by brand. This type of system trades a standing pilot system for a fully electronic spark ignitor. The spark ignitor lights the pilot, and the pilot remains lit while the main burner is in operation.
  
  This system is designed to save on gas consumption by not having a pilot light lit at all times. Almost all of these systems have a manual on/off toggle switch for basic control, but they are ideally utilized with a remote. Many models come with the remote as a standard feature. The most basic systems function like an on/off millivolt valve, allowing only on/off control from the remote only. More sophisticated systems will use a multifunction remote that will usually include high/low flame control, timers, and thermostatic settings.

Fireglass Versus Gas Logs

Available in nearly every option of gas fireplaces, fireglass is the ultimate modern touch for a traditional home feature.

Fire glass sets usually feature a gas valve that is concealed more effectively. The low profile of these sets means that the valve would be an unwelcome distraction, and the manufacturers recognize this by placing the valve in the back of the set or beneath the burner within a cavity or platform. Both vented and vent-free sets use specific media for each system. Some sets use L " tempered glass pieces, while some go as large as l " pieces. Others use round glass droplets or will also allow for decorative fire art or shapes to be added. It all depends on the system.

• Vented Fire Glass Sets &#; There are two common setups for vented fire glass systems. The first is a type that retrofits to a standard log burner. Essentially, the manufacturers take a burner system that was initially conceived as a gas log burner, remove the grate, and then add a screen matrix to support the glass over the burner pan. The result is an elevated platform with a reflective layer of fire glass that can also usually receive decorative shapes.
  
  The second type of system is a pan burner. A pan burner is a very low profile system that usually stands only a couple of inches, with a perimeter lip, an internal burner tube, and a diffuser directly over the burner to help fan the flames. The pan is mostly filled up with sand or vermiculite; then, a layer of glass or fire shapes are added.
  
  Because this system is so low profile, it lends itself towards fire glass installations where the customer wishes to cover the entire fireplace floor in glass or lava stones. The surrounding glass can be mounded up to create a seamless transition to the burner that is not possible with the gas log retrofit style systems.


• Ventless Fire Glass Sets &#; Ventless glass systems are more specialized than vented systems. Because there is always the danger of carbon monoxide being released from improper installation, the vent-free systems will usually use a purpose-built platform with an inclusive valve that cannot be swapped. The system will use the same type of fireglass that vented systems use, but the specified sizing and quantity to use must be followed closely. Because of their lower BTU output, the ventless systems usually include a burner that is clad in highly reflective surfaces to capitalize on the flame pattern.

How to Measure for Gas Logs

When trying to determine the best size of gas logs for your fireplace, you'll need to take a few important measurements to avoid oversized or undersized units. The best way to ensure you get fireplace logs that are the perfect size is by measuring the front, back, and middle widths of your firebox and the height of the firebox, too.

Log Set Sizing

In this section, we'll cover the log set sizing in more detail. Once you have determined what vent type and control options you desire, you will need to consider what size log and burner set will fit your needs.

Here are brief explanations of the four dimensions you'll need from your fireplace:

• Front Width - As implied, this is the width at the leading edge of the fireplace opening.
• Back Width - This is the width at the very rear wall of the fireplace opening.
• Middle Width - This is the measured width at the halfway back point in the fireplace opening. The front and rear widths can be added and divided by two if you know the fireplace walls to be perfectly straight. If the fireplace has an uneven taper or odd shape, the middle width must be taken manually.
• Height - This is the height measured at the very front of the fireplace opening. Masonry fireplaces will have a smoke chamber just behind the lintel bar across the top of the opening, but this extra chamber height should not be included in the height measurement.

For more detailed information on gas log sizing requirements, you can read our article, "Which Gas Logs Are the Right Size for Me?" This article goes into specific detail about factors you should consider for aesthetics as well as the advantages and disadvantages of each valve type.

Once the measurements are in hand and you have a general idea of what type of log set you're looking for, you can decide on a log set. Sizing requirements vary significantly by manufacturer, and there is no one set rule. Height requirements can range from 12 to 20 inches. Widths can be anywhere from 6 to 18 inches wider than the log set size.

In most cases, the use of a valve assembly will increase the minimum size requirements, due to both the physical size of the valve assembly and the additional space needed for cooling. Many gas log shoppers believe you should install the largest log set possible into your fireplace, but if you take a moment to consider it, how often are wood burning fireplaces jam-packed full of wood? Think proportional sizing, and trust that the manufacturer sizing guidelines are accurate.

Alternatively, if you're shopping for fireglass, you should know that the guidelines are much the same as with the gas log sets. The manufacturer will specify the required width, height, and depth that will be needed to accommodate each system, as well as the additional width or depth that may be needed for different valve options.

An easy way to determine what gas logs meet your requirements is to utilize our gas log calculator at the top of this page to make sure that you get the best log set for your needs.

How to Install Gas Logs

Gas logs are relatively simple to install. If you don't have a gas line, we highly recommend you contact a licensed plumber or gas fitter to determine the best way to route the line and perform the installation safely. Follow the installation steps carefully. You'll need pipe thread sealant, adjustable wrenches, screwdrivers, and patience for any gas log set installation.

With a gas line in place, gas log sets that are appropriately sized will fit into place with no trouble. Manufacturers provide detailed installation instructions and most also provide the necessary flexible supply line and fittings that are needed for installation. It's important to make sure that your gas log set is safe for use, so don't take shortcuts!

You will also want to get your existing chimney inspected, to make sure that it is structurally sound and not leaking, as the presence of water will cause issues with your new gas log set.

Expected Lifespan of a Gas Log Set

When the gas log set is properly installed, and the chimney is in good condition, it is easy to get 20 years of service out of a refractory cement log set with a simple standing pilot valve system. Electronic systems will usually see a failure of modules within 10 years, but the parts are common and easy to replace.

Refractory fiber logs will often begin to break down after approximately 10 years of regular use, but again, replacements are available in many cases.

However, if the chimney is not in good condition and is leaking, then you won't get as long of a lifespan out of your gas log set. Before installation commences, you should have the chimney inspected for leaks or structural issues that could lead to leaks down the road.

Dampness can take a significant toll on a gas log set in as little as a year. Moisture will also have an effect on vent-free gas logs as well and is something to keep in mind even when one is no longer going to be using the chimney for venting purposes. Additionally, dampness in the chimney could result in mold growing in the structure of the home which becomes a massive health hazard if left unchecked.

Time to Fire Up Your Logs!

At this point, we've covered a great deal of material to assist you on your journey to find the perfect gas log set for your fireplace. Not only have you learned what gas logs are and how they operate, but you've learned how to pick out the perfect size and install them correctly. If you happen to have more questions, feel free to contact one of our NFI Certified Technicians! They'd be happy to help answer any of your questions.

About the Author

Collin Champagne

With over 13 years in the industry, Collin is a National Fireplace Institute (NFI) certified technician and managed content for the eFireplacestore and eCanopy brands. He has achieved the highest NFI certification possible as a Master Hearth Professional and is certified in all three hearth appliance fields: wood, gas, and pellet. With experience with sales and in-field installations, his expertise shines through his technical knowledge and way with words.

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Like all scuba gear, choosing a scuba diving cylinder/tank/bottle takes more thought and planning than just walking into a dive shop and grabbing the first thing you see.

Without scuba cylinders you can never be like that same turtle 'flying' gracefully through the water, experiencing a world that almost defies explanation.

Scuba diving cylinders (USA: tanks, UK: bottles) are awkward and heavy, and if you fall down with one on you'll be lying on your back flailing your arms and legs in the air like a turtle flipped on it's shell.

The Faber steel cylinders have ISO -1 markings. The Catalina aluminium cylinders have DOT-3AL markings. All of these cyliners comply with Australian Standrads and are suitable for use in Australia. They may, or may not, meet the standards applicable in other coutries.

Link to ABYDA

As per the Australian Standards, the cylinders and valves we sell are for Imperial 0.750-14 NPSM (3/4 NPS) neck threads, NOT Metric M25 neck threads, and the valves have overpressure relief devices (burst discs). (Cylinders with Metric M25 neck threads do not comply with Australian Standards.)

In Australia, scuba Tanks must be tested every year (12 months). We always ship cylinders with a current hydro test date. Due to manufacturing and import cycles, the popular sizes of cylinders typically have a factory hydro date less than 12 months old. However less popular sizes of cylinders may have a factory hydro date up to 24 months old as these are manufactured and imported less frequently.

All cylinders from The Scuba Doctor are suitable for nitrox service (i.e. up to 40% oxygen), visually inspected and shipped with a current hydrostatic date (except where indicated).

No cylinder is perfect for every diver, or every diving situation. The Scuba Doctor offers the most complete selection of cylinders in the industry, allowing you to choose what is best for your unique needs.

The Scuba Doctor dive shop brings you scuba cylinders from the leading cylinder manufacturers in the world &#; Faber and Catalina &#; so you can not only get it done, but can get it done right.

Using the correct scuba diving cylinder is just as important to a diver's success and safety as how they configure their gear. A diver may go to an enormous effort to insure every hose, reel and accessory is exactly right only to 'drop the ball' by making the wrong cylinder choice.

So you're ready to buy your first scuba diving cylinder. You've decided you have enough compelling reasons to own your own cylinder(s) (tank / bottle), instead of continuing to rent. These include:

• The right size cylinder for you is not readily available for rental.
• Your dive centre is still some distance away, making that additional trip to return rental cylinders expensive in terms of both time and travel.
• The satisfaction of simply owning all of your own dive gear.
• The overall convenience of not having to rent anything.

But, before you go ahead and buy a dive tank, there are some questions you'll want to answer to make sure you are spending your hard-earned money as wisely as possible. The answers to these questions will vary depending on who you are, where you live and dive, and on the type of diving you anticipate doing.

Here's a video that from SDI that answers some of the questions, and below we'll try to answer them all for you...

How Many Cylinders Do You Need?

For most divers, a typical day of local diving involves at least two dives. For example, a common type of boat dive is a two-tank boat dive. Often you might travel to a remote site and it's not convenient to get to a dive shop for air fills in between dives.

This is why most divers will want to own more than one tank. Doing so will save you the inconvenience of renting a second, or even a third, cylinder.

Should I Buy a Steel or Aluminium Dive Cylinder?

In the southern waters of Australia most people dive with steel cylinders as they are tough, more resistant to external damage, and are negatively buoyant helping to offset the buoyancy from your thick exposure suit. Less weight is needed on your weight belt.

In the northern waters of Australia, the use of aluminium cylinders is more common. They are typically much cheaper.

However diving cylinders can be made from either steel or aluminium. Even though both types are metal, the steel and aluminium cylinders are manufactured differently, look slightly different, have different working pressures and behave very differently in the water.

Steel Cylinders

Steel cylinders are made by drawing and spinning the cylinder from heated steel to a thickness of 4-5mm. This manufacturing technique means that the cylinder is finished with a rounded bottom that will require a rubber boot in order to stand upright. However, it also means that steel cylinder have nearly the same wall thickness everywhere and thus excellent fore and aft balance characteristics. The cylinders are typically galvanised before a protective paint finish is applied to the outside of the cylinder to help prevent rust forming and damaging the steel.

Steel scuba cylinders are negatively buoyant (more so when the cylinder is full) and are the typical dive cylinder to be found in southern Australia. Steel cylinders are available in a range of sizes including: 3, 5, 7, 9, 10.5, 12.2, 15 and 18 litres with a maximum operating pressure of 232 bar (sometimes referred to as low pressure). Steel or 300 bar (high pressure) cylinder are also available in 12, 7, 5 and 3 litre sizes.

Aluminium Cylinders

Aluminium cylinders are made using an extrusion and forming process that uses a ram to effectively force the aluminium into a mould and create the internal space in one movement. This manufacturing technique gives the cylinder a flat bottom and negates the need for a separate rubber boot. It also means there is more metal at the bottom, which makes an aluminium cylinder more tail heavy, affecting diver trim.

Aluminium is a softer metal and requires a thicker wall of approximately 11 mm to withstand the internal pressure. Aluminium cylinders are typically bulkier and heavier than steel cylinders when comparing internal volumes. For example, the common 11.1 litre (80 cubic foot), 207 bar, aluminium cylinder weighs 14.3 kg vs the 12.2 litre (100 cubic foot), 232 bar, steel cylinder weighing in at just 12.9 kg. So the steel cylinder has 25% more air and weighs 1.4 kg less.

The aluminium cylinders also have a significant fluctuation of weight between slightly negatively buoyant when full (they sink), to positively buoyant when empty (they float). Thus divers have to carry extra weight to compensate for this. That's not a problem in the tropics where because or thin or no wetsuits divers don't carry much weight, but in temperate/cold waters divers don't like having to carry the extra weight.

Aluminium cylinders are usually used for technical diving as stage or decompression cylinders. Cylinders are available in a mixed range of sizes including 0.9 litre (S6), 1.9 litre (S13), 2.7 litre (S19), 5.7 litre (S40), and 11.1 litre (S80) with varying working pressures of between 207 and 240 bar.

Making a Catalina Aluminium Scuba Cylinder

What Size Cylinder Do I Need?

While steel and aluminium scuba tanks come in a wide range of sizes (see above), the following are the most commonly used sizes:

12.2 litre (100 cubic foot), 232 bar, steel cylinder
RRP: $790, Our Price: $699, You Save $91 (12%).
&#; This cylinder size is used by the vast majority of divers. They come in two size options 'Compact' and 'Standard&#;. The thing to consider is body length. A Standard is around 625 mm long with 178 mm (7 inch) diameter and 12.9 kg weight. The Compact cylinder has an overall length of about 515 mm with 204 mm (8 inch) diameter and 14.2 kg weight, so it weighs 1.3 kg more. The vast majority of divers go for the Standard size, but the Compact can be suitable for people with shorter spines. The Standard sized 12 litre is available in either 232 bar or 300 bar, but it's rare that scuba divers opt for 300 bar cylinders. A pair of the Standard 12.2 litre cylinders is the preferred choice of most technical and sidemount divers.

11.1 litre (80 cubic foot), 207 bar, aluminium cylinder
RRP: $525, Our Price: $500, You Save $25 (5%).
&#; The S80 is the benchmark 'Standard Aluminium 80' cylinder used by the majority of recreational sport divers worldwide, especially in warmer waters. A pair of these S80 size cylinders is also a popular sidemount choice. They are also used as stage cylinders by technical divers doing very long run times.

10.5 litre (85 cubic foot), 232 bar, steel cylinder
RRP: $725, Our Price: $649, You Save $76 (10%).
&#; This shorter cylinder with 560 mm length with 178 mm (7 inch) diameter and 11.3 kg weight, is preferred by many women, and blokes with a shorter frame, because it's lighter and easier to handle. If you are a diver with a very good surface air consumption rate, as many women are, then this cylinder has enough air capacity for most dives. A pair of these steel tanks is also popular with sidemount divers, and women technical divers.

15.0 litre (125 cubic foot), 232 bar, steel cylinder
RRP: $880, Our Price: $789, You Save $91 (10%).
&#; This larger size, 610 mm long with 204 mm (8 inch) diameter and 16.5 kg weight, cylinder is the choice of divers with a poor surface air consumption rate. However, it's larger size and weight makes it awkward for many divers to use.

5.7 litre (40 cubic foot), 207 bar, aluminium cylinder
RRP: $399, Our Price: $380, You Save $19 (5%).
&#; The S40 is a popular choice as bailout cylinders for rebreather divers. The S40 is also popular as stage cylinders by new technical divers just starting out. However, if they progress to deeper depths, they'll typically need the extra capacity of S80s as stage cylinders, so we recommend that size.

3 litre (25 cubic foot), 232 bar, steel cylinder
RRP: $525, Our Price: $469, You Save $56 (11%).
&#; This small cylinder is used as 'pony bottle' or 'pony cylinder.' It is a small reserve cylinder that would generally attach to the main cylinder with a clamp and used as a reserve in emergencies. Available with 232 bar or 300 bar working pressures. A pair of these cylinders is a common choice for rebreather divers.

2.7 litre (19 cubic foot), 207 bar, aluminium cylinder
RRP: $349, Our Price: $331.50, You Save $17.50 (5%).
&#; The S19 makes an excellent choice as an emergency air source tank (pony bottle) for recreational sport divers, and as bailout cylinders for rebreather divers. It has also become popular as an oxygen deco tank as its capacity is plenty for all but the most extreme dives.

Should I Buy a 232 Bar or 300 Bar Cylinder?

232 bar or 300 bar? More is better, right? Sounds like a no-brainer, but there are some drawbacks. Higher pressure requires more metal to contain it, so the higher pressure 300 bar tank is usually as big as the lower pressure 232 bar one, but much heavier (16.7 kg vs 12.9 kg) as the walls have to be thicker to contain the extra pressure.

Getting a 300 bar cylinder filled can be tricky, so always check your local air filling source to make sure they can fill to 300 bar. Not all dive shops can. If they can, they usualy charge much more, even double, for 300 bar fills, as they take much longer to do properly.

You also must have DIN (Deutsches Institut fur Normung which is a German manufacturing standard) connection on your regulator to attach to a 300 bar cylinder as these higher pressure cylinders are only available with DIN300 valves.

What Type of Cylinder Valve Do I Need?

Cylinder valves are usually made from chrome plated brass and are available in two connection types, DIN and International A-Clamp, also called Yoke.

DIN Valves

DIN valves (Deutsches Institut fur Normung which is a German manufacturing standard) are available for either 232 or 300 bar cylinders. The 232 bar connectors are shorter than the 300 bar version and will not seal in a 300 bar valve. 300 bar connectors will fit in either 232 or 300 bar cylinder valves. There are two distinct benefits to the DIN connection:

The O-ring is fitted to the regulator thread rather than the cylinder valve face. This means that when the first stage it fitted the O-ring is trapped inside the valve outlet, preventing the O-ring from being forced out under pressure and its also protected. The whole connection is much more compact, secure and safer. That's why technical divers use DIN vales and DIN is the mandatory standard in Europe.

What is the difference between DIN 200 Bar and DIN 300 Bar valves?

The Deutsches Institut F&#;r Normung (DIN) is a German standards setting organisation similar to the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and Compressed Gas Association (CGA). DIN 477 is a specification that recommends cylinder valve outlet and connector designs for specific types of gases and pressures based upon safety considerations. These various designs have deliberate incompatibilities to preclude the possibility of errors when handling different types of compressed gases at differing working pressures.

The two valve outlets and connectors of interest for divers are the DIN 477 No. 13 and the DIN 477 No. 56 (formerly No. 50), both designated for use with compressed air. The DIN 477 valve and regulator fittings are most widely used outside the U.S. The regulator first stage DIN connector is a male screw type, and instead of clamping on to the outside of the valve as does the yoke, it screws directly into the female DIN outlet of the valve. The sealing O-ring is held in the end of the regulator connector rather than in the face of the outlet. The DIN 477 system, with it's captured o-ring design, has proven to be very reliable for use with SCUBA.

DIN 200 Bar
Outlet/Connector #13 is from DIN 477 part 1 - for cylinders with test pressure ratings up to 300 bar and is commonly referred to in the SCUBA industry by the slang term "200 bar", probably because most cylinders with 300 bar test pressures have working pressures in the 200 bar range.

• 232 bar DIN (5-thread, G5/8) Outlet/Connector #13 to DIN 477 part 1 - (technically they are specified for cylinders with 300 bar test pressure)

Adaptors are available to allow connection of yoke regulators to DIN 200 bar cylinder valves. These plug adaptors (or inserts) are rated for 200-240 bar, and can only be used with valves which are designed to accept them.

DIN 300 Bar
Outlet/Connector #56 is from DIN 477 part 5 - for cylinders with test pressure ratings up to 450 bar and is commonly referred to in the SCUBA industry by the slang term "300 bar". Most cylinders with 450 bar test pressures have working pressures in the 300 bar range. The two designs are nearly identical, but the #56 valve outlet is deliberately deeper so the shorter #13 connector will not be long enough to seat properly. This is a safety feature to prevent connecting a low pressure device to a high pressure supply.

• 300 bar DIN (7-thread, G5/8) Outlet/Connector #56 to DIN 477 part 5 - these are similar to 5-thread DIN fitting but are rated to 300 bar working pressures. (Technically they are specified for cylinders with 450 bar test pressure). The 300 bar pressures are common in European diving and in US cave diving.

It's important to understand that the '200 bar' or '300 bar' descriptions are just slang terms that have nothing to do with the pressure ratings of the outlets and connectors themselves!

Yoke / A-Clamp Valves

Yoke (A-Clamp) valves are still widely used in many countries, including Australia, but as DIN valves become more popular sales of Yoke connection regulators have fallen. A-Clamp connectors have a maximum pressure rating of 232 bar and are typically only used in recreational diving (i.e. non-technical diving). The Yoke valves are also referred to as A-Clamp or International (INT) valves.

Most modern 232 bar cylinder valves are now convertible between A-Clamp and DIN using an insert that is supplied with new cylinders. The insert is left in for A-Clamp regulators, and removed using an 8 mm Allen key to allow a DIN regulator to screw into the cylinder valve. These changeable valve are typically called DIN/K valves.

Valve Bursting Disk

Australian standards require that the cylinder valve includes a bursting disk, a pressure relief device that will release the gas before the cylinder fails in the event of over pressurisation. If a bursting disk ruptures during a dive the entire contents of the cylinder will be lost in a very short time. The risk of this happening to a correctly rated disc, in good condition, on a correctly filled cylinder is very low.

Valve Threads and Cylinder Neck Threads

!!! IMPORTANT !!! Cylinders and valve threads come in a variety of sizes and great care must be taken to ensure when fitting a valve to a cylinder that matching threads are used. The valve thread specification must exactly match the neck thread specification of the cylinder. Improperly matched neck threads can fail under pressure and can have fatal consequences if someone is hit by the flying valve or cylinder. Only qualified scuba servicing professionals should be installing this equipment. Please ensure you have the training and experience required before purchasing this item if you intend to fit it yourself. If you are unsure, please call your local scuba technician to provide appropriate information for your system.

Australian Standard Diving Cylinder Valve Thread

The Australian Standard says that aluminium and steel tanks/cylinders/bottles must have a standard 3/4" NPSM (NGS) parallel thread, sealed by an O-ring, which has a 60&#; thread form, a pitch diameter of 0. to 0. in (24.94 to 25.08 mm), and a pitch of 14 threads per inch (5.5 threads per cm). It is torqued to 40 to 50 Nm (30 to 37 lbf&#;ft) on aluminium cylinders.

European Diving Cylinder Valve Threads

On most steel and aluminium diving cylinders in Europe the M25X2 ISO parallel thread, which is sealed by an O-ring and torqued to 100 to 130 N&#;m (74 to 96 lbf&#;ft) on steel, and 95 to 130 N&#;m (70 to 96 lbf&#;ft) on aluminium cylinders, is now commonly used. (M25 means the diameter of the thread is 25 mm and the X2 defines the 2 mm pitch of the thread.) On smaller cylinders where the neck isn't large enough for the M25X2 thread a M18x1.5 parallel thread, which is sealed by an O-ring, and torqued to 100 to 130 N&#;m (74 to 96 lbf&#;ft) on steel cylinders, and 85 to 100 N&#;m (63 to 74 lbf&#;ft) on aluminium cylinders is used.

Please Note: The M25X2 metric thread valves are only for use with metric M25X2 threaded cylinders. While they can be wound into a cylinder/tank with a 3/4 inch NPSM threaded neck, they will not seal properly and the combination can be very extremely dangerous. Do not try and use these M25X2 valves on typical Faber, Catalina, Luxfer etc. cylinders purchased in Australia.

When someone tries to fit a M25 valve into a 3/4 BSP cylinder thread, they will get it to seal, but only after damaging the brass threads on the valve. This produces an unstable fitting which can result in the valve coming out with incredible force that could seriously injure someone, or even kill. You have been warned.

In recent times some companies in Australia have been importing cylinders and valves with M25X2 threads, contrary to Australian Standards. The owners of the M25X2 thread cylinders and valves are typically unaware of this. Thus it can be easy for a very dangerous mix up to oocur.

Do I Need A Cylinder Boot?

In the real world yes, you need a cylinder boot on a steel scuba cylinder. Most steel cylinders have a rounded bottom. Thus a cylinder boot gives your otherwise wobbly steel cylinder something to stand in to keep it upright. It also gives it a layer of protection against bumps and bangs. A worthwhile investment. Most of the steel cylinders we sell come with a boot.

Most aluminium scuba tanks have a flat bottom and thus can stand upright without a cylinder boot. Some people put cylinder boots shaped for aluminium tanks on them for added protection of the cylinder base.

Important Cylinder Accessories You May Want To Consider

Mesh protector sleeves that slide over the cylinder to protect from exterior damage.

• Trident Tank Mesh Protector - 9-12.2 lt - 6.9-7.25"
  RRP: $22, Our Price: $20, You Save $2 (9%).
  For years suppliers have been reducing the quality of tank mesh protectors. What's commonly available now isn't anywhere near the quality most mesh protectors once were. So we searched the world to find this high quality, super durable cylinder mesh protector.

Valve covers to help keep water and dust out of the valve opening.

• Sonar Vinyl DIN/Yoke Valve Cap Protector Cover
  RRP: $10, Our Price: $8, You Save $2 (20%).
  Keep one of these protective covers on the top of your cylinder/tank Yoke valve to prevent loss of your O-ring and keep debris out of the valve when not in use.

• Sonar Male DIN Valve Cover Plug - Machined Delrin
  RRP: $13, Our Price: $11.50, You Save $1.50 (12%).
  Works with either 200-bar or 300-bar DIN valves to protect your scuba diving cylinder/tank valve from dust and debris.

Handles and carriers these make hauling your tank a little easier.

• Northern Diver Steel Cylinder Tank Carry Handle - Fixed
  RRP: $33, Our Price: $27, You Save $6 (18%).
  Safe and easy carrying of steel dive cylinders. Fits around the neck of Faber steel cylinders.

• Tank Holder - Foam Double Cylinder Holder
  Our Price: $66
  This lightweight cylinder holder design works great in car boots, trucks, and boats. It will hold two of most tanks and stop them from rolling around.

Compressed gas stickers should be displayed on all vehicles carrying diving cylinders.

Cylinder Inspections

Australian Standards (AS.5) require that your scuba diving tank be visually inspected and pressure tested at a certified testing station once per year.

A Visual Test is a detailed visual inspection of the entire cylinder and includes the following checks:

• Thread Go and No Go testing for imperfections
• Bulges
• Dents
• Wear
• General corrosion
• Area corrosion
• Isolated pitting
• Thread damage
• Weight check

A Hydrostatic Test is also performed. During the hydrostatic test the cylinder is filled with water and then placed inside a high pressure chamber that is also filled with water. The cylinder is then pressurised to its test pressure which is high enough to slightly expand the cylinder. The expansion displaces the surrounding water which is channelled into a measurement tube. If the cylinder expansion is with acceptable limits and returns to an acceptable range it successfully passes the test.

Cylinders that do not pass either of these tests are generally destroyed to prevent continued unsafe use. Test centres may return the cylinder if requested, but the cylinder must be rendered unusable before the cylinder is collected.

The Scuba Doctor Service and Repair Centre can do both types of tank testing. See Scuba Cylinder Testing for more details.

Cylinder Care

It's important that you look after your dive cylinder properly. For details about the care, storage and transportation of steel and aluminium dive tanks, please see Scuba Cylinder Care.

By taking proper care of your scuba cylinder you'll be rewarded with many years of safe, trouble-free service.

Recommended Scuba Cylinders

When purchasing scuba cylinders, the long-term advantages of steel's excellent buoyancy characteristics and long life make it the best choice for most divers, but especially those in cold and temperate waters. Choose a 232 bar steel tank size that meets your needs when it is under filled, putting an end to short fill concerns. For most divers this will be a 12.2 litre (100 cubic foot) cylinder, but some may prefer the smaller 10.5 litre (85 cubic foot) cylinder.

If your budget is tight, then an aluminium cylinders initially costs significantly less. If going with an aluminium cylinder, avoid paints, and choose the brushed finish. (The paint used on aluminium cylinders flakes off and ends up everywhere.)

For both steel and aluminium cylinders you should choose a convertible valve having a DIN outlet with K (yoke) insert, often described as a 'DIN/K' valve. (We provide this as our standard offering.)

Remember, the standard 207 bar aluminium 11.1 litre (80 cubic foot) capacity cylinder with a K valve is not a 'one-size-fits-all' tank. Making the right cylinder choice can significantly improve your diving enjoyment. Please use this guide when reviewing scuba diving cylinders and you should be able to find the right cylinder/tank to last you for years of diving.

You can see our full range of available Scuba Diving Cylinders in our online dive shop.

For more Double Aluminum Gas Valveinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.