Fridge and Wine cooler Guide | Page 3

Fridge and Wine cooler Guide

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Introduction

Many individuals look to fridges and wine coolers as a less expensive means of controlling temperature for their cigar storage. The primary driver for a temperature controlled environment for cigars is the fear of tobacco beetles. Even if the fridge is not plugged in, they make for great humidors at a fraction of the cost of a traditional cabinet. Because the technology employed within each is similar, I will refer to them collectively as fridges throughout this guide. Important differences between the two will be noted where appropriate.

What to look for

There are a wide range of fridges on the market that employ different technology for temperature control and monitoring. In addition, there are subtle differences between them that are important to understand when selecting one for your cigars.

Type
There are two major types of fridges on the market, compressor and thermoelectric cooling models. Compressor systems are the most and use the evaporation of a liquid within a closed system for cooling[sup][1][/sup]. The thermoelectric cooling systems utilize the Peltier effect[sup][2][/sup] and heat sinks to cool the air. Thermoelectric cooling systems are most popular within wine coolers because wine enthusiasts prefer a vibration free system (no moving parts) as vibrations may upset a wine's sediment. Thermoelectric systems also are more compact in size and require less maintenance. These units almost always contain a fan to circulate the cold air from the internal cooling fins. The fan will also assist with keeping humidity consistent throughout the interior of the fridge. If you are considering a conventional fridge for cooling, ensure you stay away from models with a built-in freezer as the temperature within the fridge will be less stable and you will have less control of the auto defrost feature.

Many cigar enthusiasts also believe thermoelectric systems are less prone to condensation then compressor fridges and as such, effect the overall humidity less. However, this statement is false for one important reason. Condensation forms when the temperature of the water vapor is greater then the surface it is interacting with. Condensation also forms when the temperature of the air is cooled, causing water molecules to collide to form droplets[sup][3][/sup]. So assuming two fridges, one compressor and one thermoelectric, are at the same internal temperature with the same humidity level and are cooled at the same rate to the same temperature, they will both create the same amount of condensation.

Size
Fridges come in a large number of sizes and form factors. The general agreement is to buy something as big as you have space and money for. One important factor to look for is the thickness of the fridge cabinet. The thicker the wall is, the more insulated the fridge should be, which means it should hold temperature longer. This will obviously be more important for people in warmer climates.

Temperature Control
Most conventional fridges utilize an analog thermostat with a dial whereas most wine coolers utilize a digital thermometer with an external display. Due to how a thermoelectric cooling system work, the thermostat measures the difference between the ambient (external) temperature and the internal temperature. This means most of the thermoelectric thermostats are calibrated for a specific temperature. Mine was calibrated for 77 degrees F so when I set my interior temperature to 65 degrees F, it may cool to below or above that, depending on the temperature of my house. Fridges employing compressor type of systems tend to be more accurate.

In either system, you will more then likely want to setup an additional thermostat for finer control of the temperature. There are a number of models available which are prewired for a fridge as they are popular for home brewers. The thermostats work by cutting the power to the fridge when the desired temperature is reached. It is generally recommended the fridge be set on its coldest setting when using one of these thermostats to ensure the desired temperature is reached. This cycling of power to compressor systems can be hard on them as they are not meant to be cycled in such a manner. There is not enough data available to measure the impact of a thermoelectric system but it is likely less of an issue. It is important to also note that built-in digital thermostats will revert back to a default setting when the power is cycled. If possible, it is recommended that the buyer either find a fridge with a built-in analog thermostat or a digital one which defaults to a low setting.

Setting up the fridge

Once a fridge is acquired, it is important to follow a number of steps to prepare it for your cigar collection.

Plastic Odor
Some fridges contain a black plastic, mostly common within wine coolers, instead of the white for the interior. This black plastic also has a more pungent and lasting smell then those found in standard coolers or fridges. The first step is to rid the fridge of any plastic smell. I have found sunlight and fresh air to be the best means of ridding the fridge of the plastic smell. Others have had luck with using baking soda, white vinegar, and even bleach. The cooler-dor thread located at

Thermostat
Assuming you acquired an addition thermostat for the fridge, now is a good time to install it. The manufactures recommend running the thermometer lead along the outside of the fridge and between the cabinet and door seal. This does not require you to drill any holes that may impact the integrity of the fridge. I personally chose to drill a hole through my fridge and sealed it using insulating foam and sealant. If you chose this method, ensure you reseal the fridge and replace any insulation that you may have impacted. Also be careful not to damage the electrical and cooling systems. The thermometer should be placed as far away as possible from the cooling system to ensure an accurate temperature reading. If possible, the thermometer should not touch the sides of the cabinet as it will influence the temperature reading. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on properly wiring the thermostat.

Humidity Control
The relative humidity[sup][4][/sup][sup][5][/sup] within a fridge will be more difficult to control then a non-cooled cabinet. This is attributed to the formation of condensation when the interior is cooled which drops the humidity within the fridge. As such, it is recommended that a larger then normal humidity control system be used. For example, if you are using beads, I would add at least an additional 50% over the recommended amount. You may also want to employ an active humidification system to supplement the beads but I don't feel it is required. Remember, the more your fridge cools, the more condensation will form and cause more fluctuations in the humidity.

To control condensation (auto defrost), most fridges with a freezer compartment utilize a heating element[sup][6][/sup] whereas many wine coolers use a drainage system that evaporates the excess water using hot air from a fan. We will concentrate on fridges without a freezer compartment as they are not recommended for cigar storage. We want to keep the water instead of having it drain away so we can return it to the air. How to do this will depend on what fridge you purchase and where the drain is located. However, it is generally recommended to plug the drain and divert the water back into your beads. I personally filled the drain system with insulating foam then used a sealant to plug the drain itself. I also placed humidity sheets from Heartfelt Industries along the water collection path and on the bottom to absorb the water and release it back into the air. This seems to work alright but condensation is still forming.

Make sure you do not place boxes close to the back wall or water will make its way inside them and potentially ruin your cigars.

If multiple hygrometers are available, place them at various heights within the fridge. If you notice large differences (+/-5%), you may wish to add an additional fan to help circulate the air. Many people find using battery operated fans, like those from Oust to be satisfactory.

Once you have your humidity system setup, monitor it for a few days until it aligns with the ranges you expect.

Cedar and Cigar storage
The temperature and humidity swings can cause problems for exposed cigars and it is recommended that all cigars be stored within boxes inside the fridge. I grab empty boxes from my B&M for my singles. Using a box creates a micro climate for the cigars and allows them to be shielded from momentary swings with the temperature and humidity. Assuming you do this, no other cedar is required within the fridge. Adding cedar shelving may cause more harm then good as it will restrict the circulation of air. If you chose to implement cedar shelving, route or drill holes to allow air to exchange.

Conclusion

The goal of this guide is to provide an aggregate of information about utilizing fridges and wine coolers for cigar storage. I am not an expert within the field of cigars nor refrigeration but do utilize a wine cooler to store my cigars. I spent a large amount of time reading and researching the topic and hope the information contained within this guide is beneficial.

Please feel free to send me comments, recommendations, and corrections as I hope to keep this guide up to date and accurate.

Related Discussions

Common Products Used

Wine Fridges


Thermostats


Fans


Spanish Cedar


Hygrometers

References

[1]
[2]
[3]
[4]
[5]
[6]

Model Specific Projects

Thermostats
Johnson Controls A19 Thermostat Wiring - xRanger
Ranco ETC111000 Thermostat Installation - Fuscat

Wine Coolers
Vinotemp 28TEDS - AKmik
Vinotemp 28TEDS - rectifythis
Avanti 1.6cu ft. Fridge - Zach
Magic Chef - UTKhodgy
Whynter SNO WC-28S - chadth
Haier HVW12ABB - JLW
Vinotemp VT-21TEDS - smokintexas
Haier HVW12ABB 12-bottle - kent1146

Many individuals look to fridges and wine coolers as a less expensive means of controlling temperature for their cigar storage. The primary driver for a temperature controlled environment for cigars is the fear of tobacco beetles. Even if the fridge is not plugged in, they make for great humidors at a fraction of the cost of a traditional cabinet. Because the technology employed within each is similar, I will refer to them collectively as fridges throughout this guide. Important differences between the two will be noted where appropriate.There are a wide range of fridges on the market that employ different technology for temperature control and monitoring. In addition, there are subtle differences between them that are important to understand when selecting one for your cigars.There are two major types of fridges on the market, compressor and thermoelectric cooling models. Compressor systems are the most and use the evaporation of a liquid within a closed system for cooling[sup][1][/sup]. The thermoelectric cooling systems utilize the Peltier effect[sup][2][/sup] and heat sinks to cool the air. Thermoelectric cooling systems are most popular within wine coolers because wine enthusiasts prefer a vibration free system (no moving parts) as vibrations may upset a wine's sediment. Thermoelectric systems also are more compact in size and require less maintenance. These units almost always contain a fan to circulate the cold air from the internal cooling fins. The fan will also assist with keeping humidity consistent throughout the interior of the fridge. If you are considering a conventional fridge for cooling, ensure you stay away from models with a built-in freezer as the temperature within the fridge will be less stable and you will have less control of the auto defrost feature.Many cigar enthusiasts also believe thermoelectric systems are less prone to condensation then compressor fridges and as such, effect the overall humidity less. However, this statement is false for one important reason. Condensation forms when the temperature of the water vapor is greater then the surface it is interacting with. Condensation also forms when the temperature of the air is cooled, causing water molecules to collide to form droplets[sup][3][/sup]. So assuming two fridges, one compressor and one thermoelectric, are at the same internal temperature with the same humidity level and are cooled at the same rate to the same temperature, they will both create the same amount of condensation.Fridges come in a large number of sizes and form factors. The general agreement is to buy something as big as you have space and money for. One important factor to look for is the thickness of the fridge cabinet. The thicker the wall is, the more insulated the fridge should be, which means it should hold temperature longer. This will obviously be more important for people in warmer climates.Most conventional fridges utilize an analog thermostat with a dial whereas most wine coolers utilize a digital thermometer with an external display. Due to how a thermoelectric cooling system work, the thermostat measures the difference between the ambient (external) temperature and the internal temperature. This means most of the thermoelectric thermostats are calibrated for a specific temperature. Mine was calibrated for 77 degrees F so when I set my interior temperature to 65 degrees F, it may cool to below or above that, depending on the temperature of my house. Fridges employing compressor type of systems tend to be more accurate.In either system, you will more then likely want to setup an additional thermostat for finer control of the temperature. There are a number of models available which are prewired for a fridge as they are popular for home brewers. The thermostats work by cutting the power to the fridge when the desired temperature is reached. It is generally recommended the fridge be set on its coldest setting when using one of these thermostats to ensure the desired temperature is reached. This cycling of power to compressor systems can be hard on them as they are not meant to be cycled in such a manner. There is not enough data available to measure the impact of a thermoelectric system but it is likely less of an issue. It is important to also note that built-in digital thermostats will revert back to a default setting when the power is cycled. If possible, it is recommended that the buyer either find a fridge with a built-in analog thermostat or a digital one which defaults to a low setting.Once a fridge is acquired, it is important to follow a number of steps to prepare it for your cigar collection.Some fridges contain a black plastic, mostly common within wine coolers, instead of the white for the interior. This black plastic also has a more pungent and lasting smell then those found in standard coolers or fridges. The first step is to rid the fridge of any plastic smell. I have found sunlight and fresh air to be the best means of ridding the fridge of the plastic smell. Others have had luck with using baking soda, white vinegar, and even bleach. The cooler-dor thread located at http://www.cigarpass.com/forumsipb/index.php?showtopic=13217 contains various approaches and comments that would be beneficial.Assuming you acquired an addition thermostat for the fridge, now is a good time to install it. The manufactures recommend running the thermometer lead along the outside of the fridge and between the cabinet and door seal. This does not require you to drill any holes that may impact the integrity of the fridge. I personally chose to drill a hole through my fridge and sealed it using insulating foam and sealant. If you chose this method, ensure you reseal the fridge and replace any insulation that you may have impacted. Also be careful not to damage the electrical and cooling systems. The thermometer should be placed as far away as possible from the cooling system to ensure an accurate temperature reading. If possible, the thermometer should not touch the sides of the cabinet as it will influence the temperature reading. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on properly wiring the thermostat.The relative humidity[sup][4][/sup][sup][5][/sup] within a fridge will be more difficult to control then a non-cooled cabinet. This is attributed to the formation of condensation when the interior is cooled which drops the humidity within the fridge. As such, it is recommended that a larger then normal humidity control system be used. For example, if you are using beads, I would add at least an additional 50% over the recommended amount. You may also want to employ an active humidification system to supplement the beads but I don't feel it is required. Remember, the more your fridge cools, the more condensation will form and cause more fluctuations in the humidity.To control condensation (auto defrost), most fridges with a freezer compartment utilize a heating element[sup][6][/sup] whereas many wine coolers use a drainage system that evaporates the excess water using hot air from a fan. We will concentrate on fridges without a freezer compartment as they are not recommended for cigar storage. We want to keep the water instead of having it drain away so we can return it to the air. How to do this will depend on what fridge you purchase and where the drain is located. However, it is generally recommended to plug the drain and divert the water back into your beads. I personally filled the drain system with insulating foam then used a sealant to plug the drain itself. I also placed humidity sheets from Heartfelt Industries along the water collection path and on the bottom to absorb the water and release it back into the air. This seems to work alright but condensation is still forming.If multiple hygrometers are available, place them at various heights within the fridge. If you notice large differences (+/-5%), you may wish to add an additional fan to help circulate the air. Many people find using battery operated fans, like those from Oust to be satisfactory.Once you have your humidity system setup, monitor it for a few days until it aligns with the ranges you expect.The temperature and humidity swings can cause problems for exposed cigars and it is recommended that all cigars be stored within boxes inside the fridge. I grab empty boxes from my B&M for my singles. Using a box creates a micro climate for the cigars and allows them to be shielded from momentary swings with the temperature and humidity. Assuming you do this, no other cedar is required within the fridge. Adding cedar shelving may cause more harm then good as it will restrict the circulation of air. If you chose to implement cedar shelving, route or drill holes to allow air to exchange.The goal of this guide is to provide an aggregate of information about utilizing fridges and wine coolers for cigar storage. I am not an expert within the field of cigars nor refrigeration but do utilize a wine cooler to store my cigars. I spent a large amount of time reading and researching the topic and hope the information contained within this guide is beneficial.Please feel free to send me comments, recommendations, and corrections as I hope to keep this guide up to date and accurate.[1] http://www.mansfieldct.org/schools/mms/sta.../heatrefrig.htm [2] http://www.heatsink-guide.com/peltier.htm [3] http://www.factmonster.com/ce6/sci/A0813176.html [4] http://science.howstuffworks.com/question651.htm [5] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relative_humidity [6] http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

Creating your dream wine cellar is an exciting, rewarding experience, but it demands more than a passion for the perfect pour and pretty wine racks. Wine has a handful of true enemies that can affect its flavor and cause it to spoil—with improper heat and humidity levels being two of the most damaging. Choosing the right size and style cooling unit for your wine cellar is crucial to protecting your collection. To help you navigate the options, we’ve broken down the four main types of cooling units along with their pros and cons to help you decide which unit is best for your wine storage needs.

Jump To: The Four Types of Wine Cellar Cooling Units

Why Do I Need Wine Cellar Cooling System—Won’t an Air Conditioner Do?

While an air conditioner can obviously cool your cellar, it’s not designed to consistently maintain the proper temperature and humidity levels needed to protect and preserve and age wine. Wine cooling units are specially engineered to remove hot air from the cellar, blow cold air in and evaporate water to decrease humidity. They are also engineered to cool slower than standard HVAC systems, and minimize vibrations, which are often associated with regular home air conditioning units. With these critical differences, a wine cooling unit is simply non-negotiable for protecting your prized wines.

Learn More: Can I Use an Air Conditioner to Cool My Wine Cellar?

The Four Types of Wine Cellar Cooling Units

Through-the-Wall

This unit is the most akin to a traditional window AC unit. Instead of a window, it’s placed directly within the cellar wall, sending cool air into the room from the front, while expelling warm air from the back. Unlike flat vents in ducted systems, it protrudes several inches from the wall making it hard to hide, so aesthetically it’s the least attractive option. It also takes up the most room, so you’ll lose some bottle storage space. That said, this type is only powerful enough for small or medium-sized cellars.

You also need to consider the adjacent area that the hot air is being expelled into. If it’s inside your house, it needs to be a room that can handle warm temperatures, or it can go directly outside if that’s an option in your home. You also need a power source and condensation drain, but this can simply be a bucket. This unit generates noise, comparable to a window air conditioner, in both the cellar and the room where the heat is being exhausted into. However, it’s the easiest to install. If you’re handy, you can do it yourself by simply cutting a hole in the wall and inserting the unit—and it’s the cheapest option.

Pros:

• Most affordable option
• An HVAC technician is not required for installation
• It’s the easiest to install, with no ducting or line sets

Cons:

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit best wine coolers and cigar humidors supplier.

• Generates the most noise compared to ducted systems
• Requires a designated space to vent warm air outside of the cellar
• Visible on the wall and takes up the most space in the cellar
• Suitable only for small to medium-sized wine rooms
• Integrated humidification is not available for dry climate conditions

Ducted Self-Contained

This system is the most flexible in terms of wine cellar design and unit installation. This self-contained unit houses the evaporator, fans, compressor, condenser, and controls and connects to the cellar through insulated flexible ductwork. Flat supply and return vent grilles are the only thing showing in the cellar, so if you don’t want a bulky and visible evaporator, this may be your best option if you have a small to medium-sized cellar. It’s also much quieter than the through-the-wall system and it allows for the possibility of integrated humidification control to ensure optimal temperature and humidity levels for your wine. Although pricier than the through-the-wall system, it’s still cost-effective because you don’t need a licensed HVAC technician to install it (although an experienced contractor is recommended).

Pros:

• Lower price point compared to a ducted or ductless split
• No bulky, unattractive unit inside the cellar
• Quieter operation compared to a through-the-wall system
• Only the supply and return vent grilles are visible from within the cellar
• Integrated humidifier is available

Cons:

• Requires space near the cellar to house the self-contained unit, which is large and emits a significant amount of noise
• Suitable only for small to medium-sized wine rooms
• More expensive than a through-the-wall system

Ducted Split

This option also features flat vents inside the cellar with none of the bulky units showing. What sets the ducted split apart from the ducted self-contained system is the separation of the evaporator and condenser into two distinct units. This allows the loud condenser to be positioned outside of the home, ensuring a quiet and vibration-free wine room, making it the quietest type of cooling unit available. It also features integrated humidification control to ensure ideal temperature and humidity levels for your wine. However, it’s more expensive than the previous options due to the system’s complexity, which also means you’ll need a licensed HVAC technician to install it. Still, it’s typically regarded as the best wine cellar cooling system available and is suitable for wine rooms of all sizes.

Pros:

• Works in rooms of all sizes
• The quietest unit available
• Only the supply and return vent grilles are visible in the cellar
• Integrated humidifier is available as an add on

Cons:

• Requires space near the cellar to house the air handler
• A licensed HVAC technician needs to install it, making it time-consuming and expensive 
• One of the priciest options

Ductless Split

This system is flexible in terms of cellar size, as it can work in any type or size of room. Like the ducted split, it features separate evaporator and condenser units, and the condenser can be placed outside the home, connected through a line set and communication cable. Unlike the ducted split system though, no air handler is required in a space adjacent to the cellar. Still, because the evaporator is in the cellar, this unit takes up space there. Like the through-the-wall unit, it’s not ideal if looks and limited space are a concern—although there are ceiling-mount units. While quieter than a through-the-wall unit, the ductless split still produces some noise, and requires a licensed HVAC technician to install it.

Pros:

• Suitable only for small- to large-sized rooms
• The condenser is outside of the cellar and can be positioned outside the home
• Versatile mounting options for the evaporator on the wall or ceiling
• No ducting or air handler

Cons:

• The evaporator is visible in the cellar
• A licensed HVAC technician needs to install it, making it time-consuming and expensive
• Produces more noise than the ducted split or ducted and self-contained units

Choosing Your Wine Cooling Unit

As you can see, there are various factors to consider when selecting a wine cellar cooling unit. This is a big investment no matter which one you decide on, and you’ll want to make sure you purchase the right one for your wine and your home. Think about the size and scope of your collection (and even your future wine collection); the location of your cellar (Ideally away from sunlight and heat; the room’s construction, including the presence of glass walls or windows; the adjacent rooms; and the climate where your home is located. And remember that noise and vibrations can also negatively affect wine preservation.

Here are some important things to keep in mind as you decide:

• Wine cellar size and capacity requirements
• Installation constraints and space availability
• Energy efficiency and operating costs
• Budget
• Noise levels
• Aesthetic considerations
• Precision in temperature and humidity control
• Lighting and sunlight exposure
• Climate where your home is located

The good thing is you don’t have to make this weighty decision on your own. Our expert Wine Storage Consultants can take you through a comprehensive cooling calculation to determine which system is right for you and your cellar and guide you through all the critical details like proper ventilation and insulation when building your wine cellar.

Call 855.406.9384 to speak to a Wine Storage Consultant.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of outdoor refrigerator manufacturer. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Wine Enthusiast