Weft knitting

The type of stitch used in weft knitting affects both the appearance and properties of the knitted fabric. The basic stitches are plain, or jersey; rib; and purl. In the plain stitch, each loop is drawn through others to the same side of the fabric. In the rib stitch, loops of the same course are drawn to both sides of the fabric. The web is formed by two sets of needles, arranged opposite to each other and fed by the same thread, with each needle in one circle taking up a position between its counterparts in the other. In a 2:2 rib, two needles on one set alternate with two of the other. The interlock structure is a variant of the rib form in which two threads are alternately knitted by the opposite needles so that interlocking occurs. In the purl stitch, loops are drawn to opposite sides of the fabric, which, on both sides, has the appearance of the back of a plain stitch fabric. Jacquard mechanisms can be attached to knitting machines, so that individual needles can be controlled for each course or for every two, and complicated patterns can be knitted. To form a tuck stitch, a completed loop is not discharged from some of the needles in each course, and loops accumulating on these needles are later discharged together. The plaited stitch is made by feeding two threads into the same hook, so that one thread shows on the one side of the fabric and the other on the opposite side. A float stitch is produced by missing interlooping over a series of needles so that the thread floats over a few loops in each course.

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Knitting machines can be flat or circular. Flat machines have their needles mounted in a flat plate or needle bed or in two beds at right angles to each other and each at a 45° angle to the horizontal. The knitted fabric passes downward through the space between the upper edges of the plates, called the throat. In the knitting process, the needles are pushed up and down by cams attached to a carriage with a yarn guide, which moves over the length of the machine. The width of the fabric can be altered by increasing or decreasing the number of active needles, allowing production of shaped fabrics, which when sewn together make fully fashioned garments. Although flatbed machines are suited for hand operation, they are power driven in commercial use, and, by selection of colour, type of stitch, cam design, and Jacquard device, almost unlimited variety is possible. The cotton frame, designed to knit fine, fully fashioned goods, shaped for improved fit of such items as hosiery and sweaters, is fitted with automatic narrowing and widening devices.

Circular machine needles are carried in grooves cut in the wall of a cylinder, which may be as small as 1 cm (0.4 inch) in diameter and as large as 1.5 metres (5 feet). Some circular machines have two sets of needles, carried in concentric cylinders, so that the needles interlock. During the knitting operation the butts of the needles move through cam tracks, the needles sliding up and down to pick up yarn, form a new loop, and cast off the previously formed loop. In the least complicated of these machines, yarn is supplied from one package, each needle picking up the yarn once per revolution of the cylinder. Modern machines may have as many as 100 feeders, allowing each needle to pick up 100 threads per revolution. Both latch and spring needles are used, with the former more common. Modern, large, circular, plain or jersey machines having 90–100 feeders are frequently used to produce medium-weight fabric. Small bladelike units, or sinkers, are inserted between every two needles to engage and hold the completed fabric, preventing it from riding up with the needles as they are lifted to form new stitches. Machines may be fitted with pattern wheels controlling needle action to produce tuck and float stitches, and a Jacquard mechanism may also be attached. Stop motions are essential to stop the machine when a thread breaks. Because yarn tension affects fabric uniformity, various tension controllers have been devised. An alternative method, positive feed, which feeds precisely measured amounts of yarn into the machine, is now considered more satisfactory.

Circular rib machines consist of a vertical cylinder, with needle slots on the outside, and a horizontal bed in the form of a circular plate or dial with needle slots cut radially, so that the two sets of needles are arranged at right angles to each other.

Seamless hosiery, knitted in tubular form, is produced by circular knitting machines. Modern hosiery machines, such as the Komet machine, employ double-hooked needles directly opposite each other in the same plane to knit the leg and foot portions, the heel and the toe. The toe is later closed in a separate operation. In the Getaz toe, the seam is placed under the toes instead of on top of them.

Underwear fabrics are usually knitted on circular machines, and—except for fully fashioned underwear, tights, and leotards, which are knitted to pattern and sewn together—underwear making is a cut, make, and trim operation. Tights or panty hose are a combination of hosiery and underwear and can be fully fashioned. Seamless panty hose are made on circular hose machines modified to make very long stockings with open tops, two of which are cut open at opposite sides and seamed together front and back. The wearing quality and fit of modern panty hose have been greatly improved with the development of stretch nylon and spandex, and greater variety has been introduced with the development of texturized yarn.

Much hosiery is finished by washing, drying, and a boarding process in which the hosiery is drawn over a thin metal or wooden form of appropriate shape and pressed between two heated surfaces. The introduction of nylon fibre led to the development of a preboarding process, setting the loops and the fabric in the required shape before dyeing and finishing. The article, fitted on a form of appropriate shape, is placed in an autoclave or passed through a high-temperature setting unit. Fabric treated in this way does not distort during dyeing.

Circular knitting machines can be adapted to make simulated furs. One type intermeshes plush loops with the plain-stitch base fabric then cuts the loops, producing a pile. A more common method forms the pile with a carded sliver. A plain-stitch fabric is used as the base and loose fibres from a sliver, fed from a brushing or carding device, are inserted by a V-shaped claw, forming the pile. Pile depth is determined by the length of the fibres in the sliver.

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One of the most sophisticated knitting machines incorporates electronic selection of sinkers in a Jacquard circular knitting machine.

There are many basic methods of making clothes, and knitting is one of the oldest of them; there are Egyptian knitted artefacts that date back to the 5th century AD. Hand-knitting can be done with just needles and yarn, and it doesn't need heavy equipment like looms, so it was and is an accessible and functional craft. A variety of knitting machines are also available today, to create knitted fabrics more quickly and automatically.

Before I discuss the process of knitting, let me tell you about the interesting origins of this traditional method of fabric production.

@OffsetWarehouse blog about the history, method, development and uses of #knitting. #sustainabletextiles

The history of knitting

Knitting is believed to have originated in the Middle East in the 5th century and travelled to Europe with wool traders soon afterwards. Interestingly, the examples of early knitting from Egypt are actually made from cotton fibres, not wool. Many of them have Arabic blessings knitted into them, or symbols to ward off bad luck. In the 14th century, the knitted textile form was used by fishermen to make warm, woollen, weatherproof jumpers for trips to sea. By the 16th century, knitting machines were used to knit hosiery for elite classes.

One of the oldest preserved examples of a knitted garment. Image courtesy of knitty.com.

Knitting soon became a local industry in the Highlands and Scotland, employing men in factories to knit stockings that were exported to the rest of Europe. Soon, hats, shawls, bags, jumpers and other forms of knitwear were available in the market. The first knitting loom was built in 1816 and woollen mills were set up to create expensive garments. Eugene Rodier set up the first woollen textile factory in 1853.

By the 20th century, knitwear was part of mainstream fashion. With the introduction of jersey dresses, cardigans and jumpers by fashion labels like Chanel, knitwear was a practical, fashionable and modern choice for men and women.

From the Middle East to Chanel - @OffetWarehouse look at how #knitwear hit the market.

How is knitting done?

The knitting process basically involves continuously interlinking or knotting series of loops of yarn using needles. These consecutive loops are intermeshed into the previous loop structure. Thus the new stitch secures the loop structure by locking the previous stitches that are suspended from it, eventually creating a sheet of material. Just like in weaving, this sheet of materials is a two-dimensional fabric. The difference, however, is that the threads run straight or parallel in weaved cloth, whereas the yarns follows a meandering path in knit fabric. The symmetric looping of yarn causes the resulting fabric to be elastic and stretchy, a highly desirable property that makes knitwear a wardrobe staple in winters.

Knitting creates a wonderful level of 'stretchability'

Knitting is done by hand or using machines. In hand-knitting, fabric is produced using flat knitting or circular knitting methods. We use two straight needles for flat knitting, while circular knitting is performed with sets of double-pointed needles or circular needles. While flat knitting produces two-dimensional flat fabric, circular knitting creates tubular-shaped fabric.

The basic process begins with casting on, or creation of stitches on the needle. Different methods of casting on yield different effects in the finished fabric. By varying the insertion of the needle into the previous stitch in different ways, different types of stitches are made and desired patterns can be formed in the fabric.

All knitted fabric structures are based on a pattern of knots made between the yarns.

All knitting machines follow a basic knitting process with six steps, although the machines look mind-bogglingly complicated! Knitting on machines involves low carbon steel bearded needles, which are supported on a needle bar. There is a presser bar to depress the beards, and the process is outlined below.

• The needle bar goes forward and the open needles clear the web.
• The weft thread is placed on the needles
• It is made to fall loosely
• This thread is pulled in the open needles by drawing the needle bar backwards.
• The presser bar drops to close the needle loops and draw the weft back through the loops
• The needles open and a new row of loops is revealed

Properties of knitwear

Depending on the direction in which the yarn travels during the knitting process, two types of knitting are identified: Warp knitting or Weft knitting.

Knitting type

In warp knitting, yarn loops vertically in the fabric. This type of knitting can only be performed by warp knitting machines. However, in weft knitting, the yarn travels horizontally. This type of knitting can be done by hand or using weft knitting machines. The properties and structure of the fabric differ based on whether warp or weft knitting is used in it. Warp knitting results in flat or open width forms, while weft knitting results in tubular fabric pieces. Warp knitting secures the loop structure and is resistant to runs. On the other hand, weft-knit fabrics are easy to make but it will unravel when cut, unless repaired promptly.

Stitch type

When the basic knit stitch is used, each loop is drawn through the loop below it and the finished fabric looks like rows of “V's” stacked vertically. Purl stitches resemble wavy arches across the length of fabric. Bulkier textures that retain heat can be created using knitting patterns such as the Aran knitting patterns, which resemble ropes. Named after the Aran Islands off the Irish Coast, perhaps ropes were a daily inspiration for the inventive and creative minds that pioneered this particular method.

Different types of #knitting have different #fabric properties and uses - #knitwear post by @OffsetWarehouse

Learn from Sue Blacker of Blacker Yarns about the natural and eco characteristics of wool to better understand why this fibre is primarily used for knitting.

Jersey fabrics and industrialisation of knitting

One of the most impressive properties of knitting is how it enhances the 'stretchability' of a fabric. Single-knit fabric is stretchy and lightweight, making it perfect for fitted yet comfortable clothing. This type of fabric was first commercially produced in Jersey in the Channel Islands, and was also known as, unsurprisingly, Jersey!

Jersey commonly refers to any knitted fabric without a distinct rib. Although it was originally made of wool, the introduction of commercial knitting systems led to production of jersey fabric from other fibres like cotton and rayon.

Chanel too soon moved onto cotton jersey knit to create garments such as this retro little number!

Single-knit jersey fabric is widely used in t-shirts. It is soft and pliable, and is characterised by one smooth side and a purled underside. Variations of jersey include double-knit jerseys, Jacquard jerseys and interlock jerseys and clocque jersey. Apart from sports apparel, inner wear and sweaters, jersey fabrics are also popularly used in upholstery and home furnishings. It has also been showcased in many signature dress styles, including classic knitted suits for women, zigzag Missoni knitwear, chunky cardigans and unisex knitwear designs.

So while knitting began its days as method to make solely practical woollen garments, it has travelled through time and space, evolving into a means of style and on to cult status (note the Nordic knitwear craze). It has implanted itself in our hearts and our imaginations as a pastime and as an industry to become one the most widely used commercial and also personal approaches to garment manufacture. Long live knitwear!

#knitting has evolved from #practical, to #style, to cult! Long live knitwear! @OffsetWarehouse

Fictional Scandi-noir character Sarah Lund's iconic knitted jumper collection was style talking point for months!

A painting of The Prince of Wales, made in 1921, depicts him in his Fairisle knitted jumper, a mainstay of iconic knitting styles.

The industry is changing though, with cool innovations using technology to save materials and build new silhouettes. Learn more in this lesson 'Changing The Industry' from Hall Watts of Unmade.
If you are exploring knitting yourself, and want the speed of a machine but perhaps do not have the space or funds, then a small scale machine may suit just fine. This article on 10 Best Knitting Machines can give you some initial information to get you started.

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Interested in learning more about how you can use knitwear in your fashion brand?

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