Well System Components Casing

Casing is the tubular structure that is placed in the drilled well to maintain the well opening. Along with grout, the casing keeps possibly contaminated surficial water from reaching the aquifer zone underground and prevents contaminants from mixing with the water. The casing also holds back unstable earth materials so that they do not collapse into the well. Some states or local governing agencies have laws that require minimum lengths for casing.

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The most common materials for well casing are carbon steel, plastic (most commonly, but not exclusively, PVC), and stainless steel. Different geologic formations and groundwater quality dictate what type of casing can be used. For example, parts of the country where hard rock lies underground are known strictly as &#;steel states.&#;

Residents in some areas have a choice between steel and PVC, both of which have advantages. PVC is lightweight, resistant to corrosion, and relatively easy for contractors to install. However, it is not as strong and not as resistant to heat as steel. Steel, though, is susceptible to corrosion, can have scale build-up, and can cost more than PVC.

Some contractors also use concrete, fiberglass, and asbestos cement casing.

Well Caps

On the top of the casing should be an approved well cap. It should fit snugly so debris, insects, or small animals can&#;t find their way into the well system.

Well caps are usually aluminum or a thermoplastic, and include a vented screen so that the pressure difference between the inside and outside of the well casing may be equalized when water is pumped from the well.

The casing and cap should extend at least 12 inches above the ground. If the well is near a river or stream, it should extend at least past the flood level to prevent overflows from contaminating the groundwater.

For information on well caps, click here.

Well Screens

Well screens are filtering devices used to prevent excess sediment from entering the well. They attach to the bottom of the casing or in intercepted water-bearing zones, allowing water to move through the well, while keeping out most gravel and sand. The most popular screens are continuous slot, slotted pipe, and perforated pipe.

Perforated pipe is a length of casing that has holes or slots drilled into the pipe, often after the casing is installed, perforated in place. It is not efficient for aquifers that feature a lot of sand and gravel because it has wide openings.

Continuous slot screens are made of wire or plastic wrapped around a series of vertical rods. This configuration provides consistent, regular slot openings that can be engineered to the particle sizes found in the screened zone. Slotted pipe screens, which have the least amount of open area, feature machine-cut slots into steel or plastic casing at set distances. Both of these are typically installed with a filter pack (gravel pack) that assists in screening and stability of the well.

Pitless Adapters

Pitless adapters provide wells with a sanitary &#; and frost-proof &#; seal between the well casing and the water line running to the well system owner&#;s house.

After a frost line is determined for the area where the well is being installed, the adapter is connected to the well casing below the frost line. Water from the well is then diverted horizontally at the adapter to prevent it from freezing.

For more information on materials used in a water well system, contact a professional contractor in your area.

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These days, contractors have a number of great options when it comes to residential plumbing pipe. The industry standard is still copper pipe, as it is strong and compatible with a wide range of fittings and pipes. It's also been around over 70 years and known to simply work by most contractors. Another emerging favorite is PEX tubing, a flexible and durable piping option. The main problem with these plumbing materials are their higher price tag. PVC is a cost-effective and durable option for potable water (Drinking Water).

For this reason, many thrifty contractors and home improvement enthusiasts turn to PVC pipe (product) and CPVC pipe (product) for their home plumbing needs. It is also a great insulator, so outside environments will not affect the heat of water inside the pipe. While many people only use PVC for drainage and cleanouts, it can be the sole piping material in a home when used in conjunction with CPVC. In this article, I will address some of the most common questions about using PVC for potable water.

Will PVC Pipe Affect Drinking Water?

PVC and CPVC pipe are both designed to withstand damage from virtually all corrosive chemicals and gases. Because of this, they have no problem transporting water over long distances & periods of time. Some people with new piping report water having a "slightly plastic taste," but this taste is not harmful and usually disappears quickly. Using PVC materials for potable / drinking water is not a health risk!

One possible issue with using PVC or CPVC for potable water is cleanliness. All pipes transporting potable water should be cleaned thoroughly before installation. This is as true with PVC as it is with any other type of pipe. Dust can collect on the inside of pipes while they are in storage or being transported, so a good, thorough clean is necessary if they will be carrying drinking water.

PVC or CPVC?

CPVC is a version of PVC that has gone through an extra chlorination process. This extra treatment gives it a higher temperature tolerance. Where standard PVC can only withstand temperatures up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, CPVC will hold strong in temperatures up to 200 degrees. Water heaters are typically set to heat water somewhere between 120 and 140 degrees. Because of this, regular PVC should typically be used just for drainage purposes and not for transporting hot water that could damage it.

CPVC pipe and fittings will have no trouble with hot water. With their higher temperature tolerance, they will not break down unless exposed to an open flame or boiling water. Both PVC and CPVC will insulate from cold weather somewhat effectively, but if water freezes in them, they could crack, so they should not be used for outdoor water lines unless proper exterior insulation is added.

Click here for more information on the differences between PVC and CPVC.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Using PVC for Potable Water

Most of the major benefits and drawbacks of using PVC or CPVC for potable water have been mentioned above, but I will restate them briefly. As far as the benefits are concerned, PVC pipe and fittings are far cheaper than copper pipe or even PEX flexible piping, which makes them the cost-effective option. Another useful attribute of PVC and CPVC is that they insulate more effectively on their own than copper, because they are not conductors like copper is. PVC will also not corrode due to water content, unlike copper pipes which must be checked often.

Here are a few drawbacks to using PVC or CPVC for potable water. First, PVC materials are not as strong as copper or as flexible as PEX; they float in a middle ground as far as durability and flexibility go. They are also far more susceptible to damage from freezing water than their competitors. PVC and CPVC can crack if their contents freeze, which can lead to unforeseen damages and repairs in colder climates.

Just like the other options available, PVC and CPVC have their drawbacks when it comes to potable water transportation. However, the money saved on materials can make it worth it when working on a budget!

For more HDPE Dredging Pipes for Philippinesinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.