5 Things to Know Before Buying 0 42 inch pm oled display

The LG 42 OLED Flex and the LG 42 C2 OLED are very similar TVs that are popularly used as monitors. The main difference is that the OLED Flex has a bendable screen that can go up to a 900R curve, while the C2 has a flat screen. The OLED Flex also has an ergonomic stand like a typical monitor, which features RGB lighting. Another difference is that the OLED Flex uses a slightly different screen coating, resulting in better reflection handling. Regarding picture quality, the OLED Flex also gets brighter and displays a wider range of colors in SDR and HDR.

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The LG 42 OLED Flex and the Samsung Odyssey Ark S55BG970 are both great large monitors that have their own strengths and weaknesses. The LG has an OLED panel that displays perfect blacks without any blooming. It also has a bendable screen that can go up to a 900R curve, so you can adjust it how you like. Even though the Samsung has a faster refresh rate, the LG has better motion handling thanks to its near-instantaneous response time, even at lower refresh rates. On the other hand, the Samsung has a bigger screen that can be rotated into portrait mode, giving you more vertical screen space. It also gets much brighter than the LG, making it ideal for using it in bright rooms.

The ASUS ROG Swift OLED PG42UQ and the LG 42 OLED Flex are similar 42-inch OLED displays but have different features. The LG has a bendable screen that can go from flat to a 900R curve to bring the edges within your field of vision. The LG is also a TV with extra features like processing and a built-in smart system. It also has a glossy screen coating that better reduces light from strong light sources than the ASUS. However, the ASUS has some features normally found on monitors, like a DisplayPort connection and an overclock feature to increase the refresh rate to 138Hz.

The LG 45GR95QE-B and the LG 42 OLED Flex are different types of OLED displays. The 45GR95QE-B is a gaming monitor with an even higher 240Hz refresh rate than the 120Hz refresh rate on the OLED Flex, and its ultrawide screen provides a more immersive gaming experience. The 45GR95QE-B has a fixed 800R curve, but the OLED Flex has a bendable screen that you can customize from a flat screen to a 900R curve. The OLED Flex is a TV with some extra features like a built-in smart system and processing, while the 45GR95QE-B has a DisplayPort connection.

The LG 42 OLED Flex and the Samsung Odyssey OLED G8/G85SB S34BG85 are both fantastic, but there are a few differences. The LG is a 42-inch TV with more processing features; you can bend its screen up to 900R. It also has better compatibility with current-gen gaming consoles thanks to its HDMI 2.1 bandwidth and 4k resolution. On the other hand, the Samsung has a 34-inch screen for an immersive feel, and it also delivers better picture quality thanks to its brighter highlights and more vivid colors.

The LG 27GR95QE-B and the LG 42 OLED Flex are different types of OLED displays. The 27GR95QE-B is a gaming monitor with an even higher 240Hz refresh rate than the 120Hz refresh rate on the OLED Flex, and it has a DisplayPort connection, which the OLED Flex doesn't have. On the other hand, the OLED Flex has a larger 42-inch screen that you can bend if you want a more immersive gaming experience with a curved screen. The OLED Flex is a TV with extra features like a built-in smart system and processing.

The Corsair XENEON Flex 45WQHD240 and the LG 42 OLED Flex are both bendable displays, but they have a few differences. They even have different bending mechanisms, as the Corsair has a manual adjustment, while the LG is mechanical, so you can fine-tune the curve on the Corsair a bit more. Besides that, they're different types of displays as the Corsair is an ultrawide with a lower x resolution compared to the 4k resolution on the LG, so images are sharper and more detailed on the LG. The LG also gets brighter in HDR for a more vivid experience. On top of that, the LG is actually a TV that's popular to use as a monitor, so it has many extra features, like a built-in smart system, a processor, and eARC support.

The LG 42 OLED Flex has a unique design that takes elements from both TVs and monitors. It has a sleek metallic finish, and the robust stand has mechanics normally not seen on displays to make the screen curve. You can set the curve from 0% (flat) to 100% (900R) in increments of 5%. While the screen goes back flat when you turn the display off, it returns to the previously set curvature when you turn it on again. The photo above is with the curve at 100%, and you can also see other examples of it below:

• 0%
• 50%

If you prefer a bendable monitor with manual curving mechanics, so you don't have to worry about adjusting any settings, then check out the Corsair XENEON FLEX 45WQHD240.

The build quality is excellent. The stand is very solid, and the screen doesn't wobble. It also keeps the screen in place when you adjust it, but it takes a bit of force to adjust the screen. The curving mechanism makes noise when it moves as if it's creaking, which can sound concerning the first time you hear it. However, the screen doesn't stay perfectly flat as our unit warps very slightly in the center, as you can see in this video, but this is only noticeable when viewing directly from the sides and isn't a problem when viewing from in front.

You can adjust the LG 42 OLED Flex in a couple of different ways, but its overall ergonomics are unfortunately limited as you can't remove the stand, meaning you can't wall-mount it. The back has a stylish design with a silver and gray finish and RGB lighting. You can remove the covers for cable management, and you can also route cables through the clips on the stand. If you want a curved monitor to be rotated into portrait mode, consider the Samsung Odyssey Ark S55BG970.

This display doesn't have a backlight as it uses self-emissive pixels that turn themselves on and off, so it doesn't require a local dimming feature. However, with a near-infinite contrast ratio, there isn't any blooming around bright objects, and it's the equivalent of a perfect local dimming feature. We still film these videos so you can see how the screen performs and compare it with a monitor that has local dimming.

The SDR brightness isn't bad, but it's limited when the input label is set to 'PC'. It doesn't get bright enough to fight intense glare, so it's better to use it in dark or dim rooms. These results are from after calibration in the 'Game Optimizer' Picture Mode and Game Optimizer enabled, with the input label set to 'PC', OLED Pixel Brightness on '100', and Peak Brightness and AI Brightness both disabled.

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The main advantage of setting the input label to 'PC' when using it as a monitor is that there's no change in brightness between different scenes caused by the Automatic Brightness Limiter (ABL). This means the screen stays at the same brightness when maximizing and minimizing windows. However, you can get a brighter screen outside of PC mode by using the 'Expert (Dark space, night)' Picture Mode with Peak Brightness on 'High'. Using these settings also results in a more aggressive ABL, so using them for watching content is better. You can read more about it in the TV review.

The LG 42 OLED Flex has good HDR brightness. It easily gets bright enough to make small highlights pop, but larger highlights are a lot dimmer. It tracks the EOTF fairly well until it reaches its peak brightness, where a sharp cut-off results in a loss of fine details in bright scenes. These results are with the following settings:

• Input label: PC
• HDR Select Mode: Game Optimizer
• Game Optimizer: On
• OLED Pixel Brightness: 100
• Peak Brightness: High
• Dynamic Tone Mapping: On

The HDR brightness is similar even outside of PC mode, but it tracks the EOTF better, as you can see in the TV review.

The vertical viewing angle is excellent, meaning the image's top and bottom are consistent even if you sit very close to the screen. Because you can't rotate the screen or even take it off the stand, we couldn't measure the vertical viewing angle, but instead, these results are from the LG 42 C2 OLED with a flat screen, and the LG 42 OLED Flex performs the same, even with it curved.

The accuracy before calibration in the 'Game Optimizer' Picture Mode is excellent. Leaving Color Gamut to 'Auto Detect' locks the colors well to the sRGB color space, and most colors and the white balance are only slightly inaccurate. The color temperature is close to the K target, but it's a bit on the warm side. Unfortunately, gamma doesn't follow the target sRGB curve, as most scenes are brighter than intended. However, gamma follows the 2.2 target almost perfectly in the 'Expert (Dark space, night)' Picture Mode, as you can see in the TV review.

The reflection handling is exceptional. Compared to the LG 42 C2 OLED, it has a slightly different screen finish that's even better at reducing glare. However, it's best to avoid using this in really bright rooms because it doesn't get bright enough to fight intense glare.

The photos above are with the screen at its max curvature. You can also see the same photos with a flat screen below:

• Screen on
• Screen off - average room
• Screen off - bright room

The text clarity is decent. If you want it to display proper chroma 4:4:4 for the best text clarity, you need to set the label for your input to 'PC'. Text is legible with 100% scaling, but because Windows ClearType doesn't render well with this display's RWBG subpixel layout, there's some color fringing when you enable ClearType. You can also see what ClearType looks like with 125% scaling here, and 150% scaling here.

All four subpixels are never on at the same time, and the image above features the green, red, and white pixels. You can also see other examples of the pixels below:

• White, blue, and green
• Red and blue
• Red only

The LG 42 OLED Flex has extra features most TVs have, like smart features, a processor, a built-in mic for hands-free voice control, and speakers on the stand that sound decent. The main feature of this display is its customizable curve that can set the screen from flat to a 900R curve. It also has controllable lights on the back of the stand that can sync with the audio or video on the screen.

While it has a Multi-View feature, it doesn't have real Picture-in-Picture and Picture-by-Picture modes that let you view images from two sources simultaneously. This lets you view images from certain built-in apps and one external source. Also, it has a USB port on the right side of the stand that can be used with the TV or a PC, but it isn't the same as a KVM switch because it doesn't work with two separate external sources. It's still convenient as you can plug in a USB headset and listen to content directly from the TV or PC.

The Game Optimizer menu has a few gamer-oriented features, like Prevent Input Delay to minimize the input lag, a Game Dashboard, and a Wide Aspect Ratio setting that changes the aspect ratio to match an ultrawide screen.

Lastly, this is an OLED display that's prone to burn-in with constant exposure to the same static elements over time. It can be a serious concern if you're constantly browsing the web or only working on the display, but it's less a concern for watching content or playing different games. There are a few settings to try to reduce the risk:

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• Pixel Cleaning: This corrects individual pixels after the display has been on for a while and may take up to an hour to complete.
• Screen Move: Moves the image by a few pixels to one side to help reduce the risk of burn-in.
• Adjust Logo Brightness: Dims bright static logos, like from a TV channel.

How much current do OLED displays use?

Those little OLED displays are everywhere, and there's a good reason. They're inexpensive, easy to program and they look good. I wanted to explore how much current they draw so that I can plan better for battery powered projects.

Questions I want answered:

• How much idle current is drawn when the controller is off versus on (blank display)?
• What's the minimum current to see text indoors?
• What's the maximum current when all pixels are on at their brightest?
• How does display size affect current draw?
• How does active data writing affect current draw?
• It's obvious they use more, but how much current do grayscale and color OLEDs use?
• How practical are OLED displays compared to common LCDs for battery powered projects?

Materials:

• Cheap multimeter (manual scale, assumed accuracy +/-10% at worst)
• Various OLED displays (72x40, 96x16, 128x32, 64x32, 128x64-0.96", 128x64-1.3")
• Arduino compatible microcontroller (Adafruit nRF Feather Express)
• Software (my ss_oled library)

These are the displays I used for my tests. I like to use the I2C breakout board versions for simplicity. There may be inefficiencies in the linear regulator and other discrete components which come on the breakout boards, but since the active displays use milliamps, losing a few microamps shouldn't be a big deal.

What about color and grayscale OLED displays?
I was asked on twitter to include a quick test of these OLED displays. I could tell that the power usage was high because the controller chip gets hot to the touch when barely anything is displayed. I no longer have my SSD color OLED to test, but I do have an SSD 128x128 4-bit grayscale display. With the display set to 'off', I measured 600uA. Here are some values I measured when the contrast (brightness) was set to the maximum value:

Display filled with color 0  - 2.5mA (every pixel is off/black)
Display filled with color 1  - 85mA
Display filled with color 2  - 111mA
Display filled with color 3  - 147mA
Display filled with color 15 (display reset due to my 3.3v power supply sagging)

In general, the display uses a lot more current to get the same pixel brightness compared to the monochrome SSD displays.

Procedure:
I ran 8 different tests on each display. The "dim" setting has the contrast set at a value of 31. This is comfortable to read in indoor light or at night. 127 is the default contrast and is reasonably bright. 255 is the max brightness. The current was measured by inserting the multimeter probes between the Vcc of the display and a 3.3V power source (in this case, the regulated output of the Arduino). There was very little visible difference between contrast 1 and 31.

Results:

Type Display Off On, but Black Contrast 31, 50% pixels lit Contrast 127, 50% pixels lit Contrast 255, 50% pixels lit Contrast 31, 100% pixels lit Contrast 127, 100% pixels lit Contrast 255, 100% pixels lit 128x128 1.12' 5mA 7.1mA 49.5mA 104.0mA 108.0mA 89.9mA 104.0mA 104.0mA 128x64 1.3' 490uA 490uA 15.4mA 26.1mA 31.4mA 20.6mA 33.7mA 39.1mA 128x64 0.96' 26uA 469uA 5.6mA 8.1mA 11.0mA 10.3mA 15.1mA 20.7mA 128x32 0.91' 6uA 6uA 12.1mA 16.2mA 21.1mA 21.3mA 29.0mA 38.7mA 128x32 0.91' 4uA 4uA 16.2mA 19.7mA 21.7mA 27.5mA 33.8mA 36.0mA 96x16 0.69' 7uA 7uA 4.45mA 5.62mA 6.96mA 7.23mA 9.44mA 12.11mA 64x32 0.49' 6uA 6uA 1.56mA 2.71mA 3.11mA 2.49mA 4.63mA 5.17mA 72x40 0.42' 4uA 230uA* 630uA* N/A N/A 93 N/A N/A * The 72x40 display didn't appear to respond to the contrast setting and had a permanent and somewhat dim contrast.
* The 128x128 display is sold by Pimoroni; I don't have other examples to test

I thought that the 128x32 was an anomaly from a specific vendor, but a second display from a different vendor behaved the same way. Strangely, a second 64x32 display from the same vendor, bought in the same batch, used twice as much power as the one tested above.

I chose the most efficient display to do a final test which displays text (less than 50% pixel coverage). My ammeter read 630uA for a static text display on the 64x32 OLED.


What about active data writing?
Besides extra activity on the display controller, there will be current leaking through the pullup resistors when the SCL or SDA lines go low. Typical pullup resistors for these displays are 4.7KOhm, so while the data and clock lines are active, about 700uA (3.3V / ohms) will leak through them. I tried a test where I continuously wrote the same data to the display (same display and same text as above). The results were a reading of 1.47mA. Different pullup resistors and different data being written will produce different results.

Conclusions:

• There is a nearly linear relationship between the number of lit pixels and current use
• The display size is directly related to the current use
• There are some oddball displays that use more current than expected. Need to test each one individually
• Actively writing to the display uses more current than a static display - hard to know if it's the I2C activity or the controller chip or both
• There's something odd about the 72x40 displays I have; I will need to get some from another vendor and retest
• The ubiquitous 128x64 0.96" OLEDs can potentially display a screen full of useful information on less than 5mA
• The power usage of grayscale and color OLEDs is much less efficient when compared to the same size and brightness of monochrome displays.
• A small OLED with indoor readable text can run on less than 1mA

The last item above surprised me the most. The power indicator LED on most Arduino boards uses more current than the 64x32 OLED with useful information displayed on it.
To answer my last question about the practicality of OLEDs versus commonly available LCDs for battery powered projects, I think it depends on the project and power source. A decent sized LCD with the backlight off can consume less than 275uA (my measurements from a 2" 128x64 UC). If your power budget is small and your MCU is programmed to sleep most of the time (avg current < 1mA), this can make a huge difference compared to a 5-20mA OLED displaying the same info. On the other hand, if you're powering a Raspberry Pi Zero or ESP32 w/WIFI on (80-120mA), another 5-20mA won't make as big a difference to your power budget.
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