How to Join Welded Wire Mesh

How to Join Welded Wire Mesh

Usually, if you are installing a panel style welded wire mesh, you don&#;t have to worry about joining panels. At the end of every panel, you will be installing a post, so all you have to do is connect the panel to the post using whatever clips, cover strips or other method the welded wire mesh fence system requires.

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However, there are also welded wire mesh fences that are made with rolled welded wire mesh. Rolls don&#;t always terminate at a post, so you will need to join your welded wire mesh wherever one roll ends and the other must begin. Here&#;s how that&#;s done.

Not Like Chain Link

Generally, welded wire mesh is more secure than chain link fence, but the same reason that&#;s true is also the reason why you need to know how to join this type of fencing.

Usually, when you join two rolls of chain link mesh or diamond mesh as it&#;s also known, you simply &#;spiral&#; one of the woven wires that make up the mesh into the two adjacent rolls. This seamlessly &#;knits&#; the fence together.

However, since you can spiral wires in, you can also spiral them out, and that&#;s one of the weaknesses of chain link fencing. Welded wire mesh is welded at each wire intersection, which means you actually have to cut every wire if you want to make a hole in this type of fence. That makes it more secure, but it also makes it a little harder to join this type of mesh.

The Overlap

Very often, when you are reading a welded wire mesh fence specification, you will be told how much each roll of welded mesh needs to overlap the other.

Usually, this overlap will be at least 150mm or about 6 inches. In some cases, you might be required to overlap a little more, but that&#;s usually the standard.

It&#;s important to remember this overlap when you&#;re estimating a welded wire mesh fence too, because every roll will cover a little less than the full roll length.

The image below illustrates how the overlap when joining welded wire mesh will look.

 

Angled Overlaps

Overlaps and welded wire mesh joins don&#;t only happen at the end of a roll of mesh. If you have a welded wire mesh fence that will change elevation and follow a slope that&#;s not steep enough to warrant a tension post at the top and bottom of the slope, you will also need to angle, cut and join the angled mesh to the fence at the top and bottom of the slope.

This is one reason why it takes a little more skill and experience to work with rolled welded wire mesh fences. It doesn&#;t behave the same as chain link, so it&#;s a little trickier to install.

How to Join the Mesh

 

The last thing you need to know about how to join welded wire mesh is what to use to make the actual joins. There are several options for this.

First, you can use tie wire. Either the pre-bent type of tie wire used in North America or coiled tie wires that you cut and twist as needed can work. Make sure your twists are bent back because they can catch on fabric or even cause cuts if they stick out from the fence.

Another option is to use hog rings or heuller rings as they are sometimes known in parts of the world. These are pre-bent wire rings that are clamped closed using a special kind of pliers.

The final option &#; and the one that is usually specified for high-security fences &#; is to use a pneumatic tool and special clips that are sometimes called Hartco clips. The tool looks like the one from Amazon to the right, and it works with a compressor to create a very tight and solid join. It costs a little more than your usual pliers, but can be quicker in trained hands, and does provide a stronger join.  

                               

Your Fence Is Only As Strong As the Weakest Point

It&#;s important to remember that your fence is only as strong as the weakest point. So when you are doing things like joining welded wire mesh, it&#;s a good idea to use quality materials, leave the job to people with the right kind of skills, and use a few more tie wires, rings or clips than you think you need.

 

 

How to simply and safely install a metal fence

The process of installing a metal fence varies according to specific factors, including:

• the type of mesh chosen (simple torsion, knotted, electro-welded, in rolls or in panels);
• the type of soil on which the installation will be carried out;
• the primary purpose of the fence itself: anti-intrusion, protective, ornamental, etc.

This article offers an overview of the fundamental steps, which are applicable in every situation, as well as the safest and most commonly used installation techniques, with a section dedicated to electro-welded mesh and simple torsion fences.

1. UNDERSTANDING THE REGULATIONS

First of all, you should look into your local regulations and find out about any neighbourhood rules or regulations, to get a good understanding of the limits and restrictions to be adhered to.

2. STUDYING THE SOIL

It is a good idea to start by identifying the precise boundaries of the space to be fenced. In this regard, we advise that you leave about 10 cm of distance between your property&#;s boundary line and the holes for the fence posts, to avoid intruding on neighbouring property.

Also remember to identify the layout of any pipes and cables installed in the ground, so as to avoid damaging them during installation.

Finally, you need to analyse the features of the land where the installation is to be carried out. Factors such as slopes and soil composition can actually impact your choice of fencing and installation methods. For example, if the soil is robust and compact it can be used as a base for the installation of the posts, but otherwise concrete or screw piles should be used.

3. OUTLINING THE PROJECT, PLANNING THE WORK

You should now accurately trace the perimeter of the area to be fenced, using a mason&#;s line as a guide. Once this task is complete, you should measure the overall length of the defined perimeter, so as to establish how many posts and metres of mesh (or how many panels) are required. This is the ideal time to determine the type of posts that will suit your needs. Posts are typically divided into:

• end posts (with only one reinforcement strut);
• intermediate posts (without reinforcement struts);
• corner posts (with two struts at a ninety degree angle);
• reinforcement posts (with two struts).

This distinction applies to chainlink and electro-welded mesh in rolls, but not to modular panels, which are installed without struts. The ideal distance between one post and another varies largely according to the type of mesh used (chainlink or electro-welded). In particular, for simple torsion mesh the ideal distance between one post and the next is two and a half metres, while for electro-welded mesh it can vary between two metres and two and a half metres. Finally, if you have opted for a panel fence, remember that the length of the panels serves as a guide for the post installation process.

Before starting the actual installation, make sure that the outlines created are correctly aligned and mark the exact position of the posts, struts and gates using pegs, chalk or spray paint.

4. INSTALLING THE FENCE POSTS

You can now move on to the actual installation of the posts. The end posts are the first to be positioned, followed by the intermediate posts.

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Additional resources:
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Taking into account the range of different methods that can be used for this operation, we have chosen to describe here the most important.

Installation using concrete

First of all, you need to dig a hole (measuring around 35 to 40 cm on each side) between 25 cm and 50 cm deep depending on the height of the post. You can now spread a layer of well-compacted gravel (about 10 cm) at the bottom of the hole to serve as a base for the concrete block. Check that the hole depth is correct by inserting the post: if the distance from the ground to the top of the post is the height of the mesh plus 5 cm, you can continue to the next step.

Be sure to check that the post is straight using a level, and lock it in position with clamps and wedges, then pour the concrete around the post. An alternative method is to fill the hole with concrete first and then insert the post until it touches the gravel base, holding it firmly in place with supports. Once again, it is essential to check the alignment with a level. We advise that you wait until the concrete is totally dry, bearing in mind that times will vary according to the chosen cement mortar.

Installation using screw piles

Screw piles represent another possible option. If you choose to use them, proceed as follows: manually fix the screw in the ground, insert the pin into the appropriate holes in the screw and insert the screwdriver from above. Plant a pin in the ground about two metres away and connect it to the screwdriver to act as a stop for the stabiliser. Insert the latter into the appropriate slot and check the verticality of the screwdriver with a level (some models include a convenient built-in spirit level). Start the screwdriver and install the pile until it reaches ground level. Position the post in the pile, adjust the height and fix it in place using the three screws on the base of the pile. Once again, it is essential to check the alignment of the post using a level.

Direct installation into the ground

Alternatively, you can install the posts directly into the ground at a depth of about 50 cm.
After installing the end posts, stretch a wire between them to allow for easier alignment of the intermediate posts.
Once all the posts have been installed, the next step is fixing the struts. The struts must be fixed to the posts using the appropriate metal collars or screws and nuts. We advise that you permanently lock the struts in place using self-tapping screws.

5. INSTALLING THE MESH

You can now move on to the tension wires. They are installed as follows: using iron wire or hooks, fasten the strainers to the first end post at three different points: at the base, in the centre and at the top, to correspond with the relevant slots.

Thread the first wire to be stretched through the inner workings of the strainer and then through the appropriate housing on the intermediate posts, and finally fasten it to the strainer on the post at the opposite end. Cut the excess wire and use a set of pincers to stretch the wires, starting with the lowest one, until you reaching the desired level of tension.

Then fix the end of the mesh to the first post, removing any protruding elements using pincers, in order to obtain a better aesthetic result and avoid any risk of injury. Unwind the roll of wire mesh and stretch it out as much as possible, then fix it to the intermediate posts using iron wire, always being sure to remove any excess. Once the mesh it is attached to the opposite end post, you can also remove any excess mesh.

Finally, join the mesh to the tension wires using a stapler.

And there you have it: a sturdy and safe metal fence. We would like to conclude this short guide with a list of the tools you will need during installation.

THE TOOLS YOU NEED TO INSTALL A FENCE

• Simple torsion or electro-welded metal mesh
• Metal posts and struts
• Strainers
• Tension wires
• Protective gloves
• Spade, shovel
• Screwdriver (for installation using screw piles)
• Concrete, trowel, bucket, wheelbarrow, fine gravel (for installation using concrete)
• Metal spikes (for direct installation into the ground)
• Spirit level
• Metre stick
• Pincers
• Stapler
• Pegs and hammer or spray paint or chalk

Disclaimer
Cavatorta offers these guidelines as recommendations and is offering them as a free service. However, installing our products is at your own risk, so therefore we cannot be held accountable for any damage to your products, garden, or yourself while following these guidelines. This information provides you with a practical level of guidance to erect a fence, we do not intend to enable you to better understand how local Building Regulations might impact on a project you are doing or considering. This document is not a definitive interpretation of Building Regulations. We urge you to seek appropriate professional advice before starting work, and if required choose a registered builder, or a registered installer, to carry out any work.

Installing Welded Wire Fencing Levelly On Uneven Land

When it comes to protecting gardens and orchards from hungry deer, welded wire fencing is my first choice. It&#;s more expensive than some other options (plastic deer fence can be a workable alternative for enclosing large areas at a friendlier price point). But the durability and largely impenetrable defense it offers is highly appealing.

About Welded Wire

I&#;ve used a lot of welded wire through the years. I&#;ve enclosed my garden and protected individual fruit trees with it. And I&#;ve installed the fencing along the front of my orchard to provide an extra-secure and tidy barrier across the previously wide-open entrance to the orchard field.

Along the way, I&#;ve come to realize welded wire has a significant quirk that can make tidy installation tricky. It doesn&#;t stretch. It doesn&#;t compress very well either. This means welded wire struggles to adapt to the nuances of undulating ground.

 

The Trouble with Uneven Ground

Let me give you an example. My garden is planted on mostly flat ground. Installing welded wire is generally a breeze.

I can place the bottom of the fencing at ground level and roll out the wire without issue around most of the perimeter of the garden.

 

But at one corner of the garden, the ground slopes off meaningfully. Installing welded wire here is difficult. Since welded wire doesn&#;t stretch, it can&#;t easily change angles to travel uphill or downhill. If you try, the welded wire will compress inward or outward instead.

This can create a potentially significant bulge in the otherwise smooth wire fence.

Bulges are unsightly on a crisp and tidy fence. But they also make it harder to install the welded wire tightly to its supporting posts. Whenever possible, I avoid letting these bulges get started. This means installing the welded wire so it doesn&#;t have to travel along sloping ground.

Bypassing Bulges

There are several ways you can pull this off. If slopes are mild, you might consider leveling the ground along your fence line. Or you could use a spade to open a narrow channel through sections of high ground. Through these, you can run the bottom of the welded wire to keep it level.

On the other hand, you could install the fencing to match the highest point of elevation and maintain that level throughout. This is the approach I used successfully with my orchard fence.

It does leave gaps between the bottom of the fence and sections of lower ground. But I simply cut custom pieces to fit the gaps (sloping their bottoms as necessary). This gives a tidy appearance.

Read more: Follow these 4 steps to build an effective garden fence.

Consider Terracing

For steeper slopes, you could consider terracing the ground and cutting the fencing into short sections to match the widths of the terraces. This allows you to raise or drop the height of the welded wire fence in steps while keeping each individual section level and straight.

The results can be impressive, though terracing slopes is no small effort.

Tight (but Not so Tidy)

Another way to compensate for slopes (if the slopes are reasonably long and gentle)? Cut sections slightly longer than the length of each slope. Install them with their bottoms flush against the ground, overlapping as necessary to eliminate gaps at the cut points.

This isn&#;t the tidiest look (and the top of the fence will rise and fall with the changes in elevation). But it can make for a tighter fence than one with bulges.

For more information, please visit Double Wire Fence.